Beacon in the dark a welcome sight
Castlepoint Lighthouse
At 23 metres, it’s the tallest lighthouse in the North Island, theatrically positioned 52m above the sea on a rugged and weathered rocky headland on the Wairarapa coast.
Just an hour’s drive from Masterton, it’s easily reached by a short stroll along a boardwalk, and is a gift to the photographer – plus anyone else who enjoys a stunning view.
It was assembled here in 1913 from seven iron rings cast in Wellington, brought in by boat and hauled up to the site by a team of horses.
Powered first by kerosene and then by electricity, it was finally automated in 1988 and is now controlled by a computer in Wellington, blinking three times every 30 seconds throughout the night. It’s the focal point of a spectacular piece of the coast, which also rewards closer inspection.
Why go?
Apart from the lighthouse itself, and the dramatic views from it out to sea and along the coast, there are interesting fossil shells in the rock beside the boardwalk, and information boards telling you all about them. You might also see fur seals, as well as many sorts of seabird. The rock fishing’s good here, too.
There’s a sheltered lagoon suitable for swimming at the base of the headland, and a long sandy beach in front of the little Castlepoint settlement where there’s a motor camp, a store, and good coffee at the She-Brews caravan. A 45-minute walk along a track to Deliverance Cove rewards you with great views back towards the lighthouse from below the looming bulk of Castle Rock.
Insider tip
A lighthouse keeper fell to his death from the tower in 1922, and it’s said his ghost still lingers in the vicinity – but he’s a benign presence, apparently.
On the way/nearby
On the road back to Masterton, stop off at Tinui to visit the site of the world’s first Anzac service, in the Church of the Good Shepherd in 1916 then climb the hill to the big memorial cross.
Beautiful (that’s official, as of 2017) Masterton is worth a stop, especially for its many excellent restaurants and the informative Wool Shed: this is the home of the Golden Shears, after all, so well worth a visit.
If you have kids, or even if you don’t, Queen Elizabeth Park has a miniature train and swan-shaped pedal boats as well as all the usual trees and flowers.
Twenty minutes’ drive north is Pukaha Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre, where you can feed eels and tuatara, and see Manukura, the world’s only white kiwi in captivity.
It’s also home to takahe, stitchbirds and many other endemic species.
How much?
The walk is free, of course, and you can’t go inside the lighthouse.
Best time to go
If you’re up for it, a windy day is the most spectacular, with huge waves breaking on the cliff – you might even see some foolhardy surfers out there risking all. The lit-up lighthouse looks good at night, too. – Pamela Wade
❚ See wairarapanz.com