Discover the real India
Explore India with our guest experts whose unique knowledge of India’s history and culture will turn your tour into an unforgettable experience, writes Trupti Biradar.
Dawn is just beginning to break through the clouds as our rental car pulls up about a kilometre away from the white marble mausoleum. We’ve fought our way through the smog and traffic from Delhi.
Despite the early hour, the crowds are already forming. Tourists and locals alike form unruly queues, touts clamour for your business, cheeky children beg for your attention... and money. The spicy smell of masala chai wafts through the air, as we wander past chai wallahs on their cycles. Stray dogs nip at the ankles of wandering cowsrummaging through rubbish looking for their next meal.
We step through metal detectors, show the guards our bags and are ushered through, along with thousands of others, cameras poised, awaiting our first glimpse of the ivory white Taj Mahal. A hush falls over the crowd as the magnificent structure comes into view. No photograph or video can do it justice. But it’s a real example of an instance where the destination was worth the journey.
India has never been a destination for the lazy traveller. She embodies organised chaos. She’s confronting, and she gets under your skin. But she rewards the patient traveller with an experience like no other.
The world’s second most populated country is best explored with those who understand its intricacies, its history, and its charm.
From the souk-lined streets of Old Delhi and the palaces of the Pink City (Jaipur), to the forests of Ranthambore, once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas and the opulent Taj Mahal, Stuff and travel experts Wendy Wu have created the tour of a lifetime.
Relax, knowing your flights, accommodation, meals and touring are included.
You’ll be accompanied by our guest experts – Graeme Waters, a former NZ diplomat with strong ties to India, and myself, Trupti Biradar, Stuff’s editorial travel director – whose unique knowledge of India’s history and culture will turn your tour into an unforgettable experience.
We’re inviting our readers to discover the real India.
The itinerary Day 1 – 2: New Zealand to Delhi
As the capital of India, Delhi is the third largest city, with a population of approximately 18 million. Its strategic location along the north-south, eastwest route has given it a focal position in Indian history and many great empires have been ruled from there.
The monuments and ruins of these are scattered throughout the city, often cheek-by-jowl with modern structures and high-rise towers.
Delhi is split into two main sections. Old Delhi is the area defined by the old city wall and is a maze of small alleyways and side streets. Its bazaars are legendary. Today the great wholesale bazaars of Chandni Chowk still retain a souk-like quality. Their narrow streets are lined with shops, whose goods spill out on to the pavements.
New Delhi grew under the British colonial rule and is characterised by the grandeur of early 20th-century buildings and wide, tree-lined boulevards.
Day 3: Delhi
We enjoy a full day of sightseeing starting in Old Delhi where we see the Red Fort, before walking through Chandni Chowk, savouring the ambience of the oriental, crowded bazaar. Afterwards we continue to India’s largest mosque, Jama Masjid.
We will also visit the imposing modern Lakshmi Narayan Hindu Temple, built in 1938. The main temple is dedicated to Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth.
Afterwards we will have a brief photo stop at India Gate, a memorial to the Indian servicemen who died in World War I.
Continue to Humayun’s Tomb (the second Mughal Emperor), built in the mid-16th-century. This tomb is the first great example of a Mughal garden tomb and was the inspiration for several monuments such as the incomparable Taj Mahal.
Later this afternoon, visit the Qutab Minar Complex, visiting myriad monuments that combine Islamic calligraphy and Hindu motifs, commemorating the onset of Islamic rule in India.
Later we visit the always jam-packed Connaught Markets, where we can find linen, clothing, saris, handicrafts, jewellery, books, home wares and everything in between.
Day 4: Delhi to Udaipur
Today, fly to Udaipur, and enjoy a cruise on Lake Pichola, fringed with hills, palaces, havelis, ghats and temples. On the cruise we will see Lake Palace, formally known as Jag Niwas, built between 1734 and 1751. It was once a royal summer retreat and is now one of the world’s greatest hotels, made famous as a location in the James Bond film Octopussy.
Day 5: Udaipur
We begin with a drive around Fateh Sagar Lake, which has a garden cafe on its island. Located nearby are the Folk Museum and Mewar Art Gallery.
Although the Folk Museum is small and has been neglected over the years, the unique variety of ethnic groups and cultures of the hills around Udaipur make this visit well worthwhile.
We also visit the Sahelion Ki Bari Gardens (Garden for the Maids of Honour).
This delightful 18th-century retreat in the north of the city was built for the Queen of Udaipur, whose dowry included 48 maids.
We then visit the massive City Palace overlooking Lake Pichola. Built in 1725, it comprises 11 palaces, all of which are ornately decorated.
Day 6: Udaipur to Bundi
We visit the Fort of Chittor, said to be originally built by mighty Bhim, one of the Pandava heroes of the Mahabharata legend. We also visit the ninestorey, 37-metre high Vijay Stambh, built by Maharana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over Muslim rulers of Malwa and Gujarat in 1440.
Kirti Stambh, the Tower of Fame, which is 22m high, covered with figures from the Jain Pantheon. This ancient city has been sacked three times.
One of Rajasthan’s hidden gems, Bundi features the impressive Taragarh Fort on a hillside overlooking the town. Within the walls of the fort is the beautiful palace of Badal Mahal, famous for its exquisitely painted murals.
Day 7: Bundi to Ranthambhore
Today we drive to Ranthambore National Park, one of the prime
examples of Project Tiger’s conservation efforts in Rajasthan.
Day 8: Ranthambhore
The forest around Ranthambore was once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Jaipur. The desire to preserve the game in this forest for sport was ultimately responsible for their conservation and subsequent rescue by Project Tiger. Hence this National Park is renowned for its tiger population, however you may also come across leopard, nilgai, wild boar, sambar, hyena and the sloth bear.
Day 9: Ranthambore to Jaipur
We drive to Jaipur, a city founded in 1727 as Mughal power within India was declining. At this time then Maharaja Jai Singh moved his capital from Amer Fort down to the plain below. The city is now the capital of Rajasthan State, and commonly called the Pink City because of the pink paint on the buildings. This was apparently done to imitate the magnificent, red sandstone buildings of the Mughals and to impress the Prince of Wales when he visited in 1876.
Later this afternoon we visit the Maharaja’s City Palace to explore the former royal residence: part of the building has been converted into a museum, while Jaipur’s royal family still use the remaining sections. Close to the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, the largest stone- and marble-crafted observatory in the world.
Day 10: Jaipur
Today we stop at Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), en route to Amer Fort, or ‘‘Amber Fort’’ as the British called it.
Erected in 1799 by the Sawai Pratap Singh, Hawa Mahal was built so that the veiled ladies of his harem could observe, unnoticed, the lively street scenes below. Inside Amer Fort we visit the Hall of Victory, which houses the famed Sheesh Mahal.
DAY 11: Jaipur to Agra
We drive to Fatehpur Sikri, 40km from Agra. Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar in 1569 after it was prophesised that the then childless Akbar would have sons if he moved his capital to the site.
At great expense to the empire, the capital was moved here but sadly only occupied for 14 years before slowly being deserted and ruined after Akbar left the city due to a scarcity of water.
While here we visit the remarkably well-preserved and graceful buildings within the Ghost City, including the Jama Masjid, tomb of Salim Chisti, Panch Mahal Palace, and other palaces that speak of the grandeur and splendour of the Mughal Empire at the height of its power.
Day 12: Agra
Rise early this morning to view the Taj Mahal in all its glory as the sun is rising. The Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died in 1631.
We then visit Agra Fort, situated on the west bank of the Yamuna River and built by Emperor Akbar between 1565 and 1573. Its imposing red sandstone ramparts form a crescent along the riverfront and encompass an enormous complex of courtly buildings, ranging in style from the early eclecticism of Akbar to the sublime elegance of Shah Jahan.
The barracks to the north are British additions from the 19th Century. A deep moat, once filled with water from the Yamuna River, surrounds the fort.
Later we visit Itmad-ud-Daulah’s tomb – built in memory of Mirza
Ghiyas Beg, Jehangir’s wazir. Also known as the ‘‘baby Taj’’, it was the first Mughal building to use the craft of facing buildings with white marble and decorating them with inlaid semiprecious stones, an art which reached its zenith in the Taj Mahal.
Though lacking the grandeur and artistry of the Taj, Itmad- ud-Daulah is small, intimate and serene.
Day 13: Agra to Gurgaon (Delhi)
We will stay in Gurgaon, an emerging city 30km from Delhi.
Tonight we will visit the Kingdom of Dreams, a live entertainment destination where we will watch a magical Bollywood performance.
Dinner this evening may be arranged at a local restaurant before the show, or we may be provided with a dinner voucher for this evening, to be used at the venue’s food outlets (this arrangement depends on seasonal availability of restaurant bookings).
Day 14: Depart Gurgaon (Delhi) to New Zealand
Today, we have an optional visit to Dilli Haat – a traditional Rural Haat or village market, with a synthesis of crafts, food and cultural activity.