The setting
Wanaka is a busy little town, especially at the height of summer. From sunrise until well after sunset, the lake edge is lined with motorhomes, campervans and cars and people basking on the beach in the Central Otago sun or cooling off in the pristine water. The gateway to the Mt Aspiring National Park, a wilderness of snow-capped peaks, gleaming glaciers, gin-clear rivers, beech forests and alpine lakes, the town is a tourist mecca.
As much as we love the hustle-bustle of downtown Wanaka, on this occasion we needed peace and privacy to prepare for a family wedding, so we ventured 10 minutes out of town to Te Ariki Nui, a secluded rural abode surrounded by mountains, tussocks, fruit trees and a family of alpacas.
The space
Te Ariki Nui, designed by awardwinning architect Paul Clarke, is the exquisite private home of Kiwi fashion icon Robyn Hall. Translated, the name means ‘‘above all others’’. The awardwinning house sits light and low on the landscape, recessed into a shallow gully on the four-hectare property. Glass walls render it transparent, allowing it to merge into the surrounding tussock lands. Encircling the property like a protective palisade, the 360-degree panorama of mountains from the rise above the house is breathtaking.
The kit
Four generous bedrooms and three bathrooms, including a detached selfcontained studio, provided ample private space for eight. The open-plan kitchen, dining and living area was perfect for meals and socialising.
The kitchen had every high-end appliance and utensil imaginable and an abundance of pantry essentials.
Massive floor-to-ceiling glass walls on both sides of the living area slide back to create inside-outside living and permit maximum airflow on those scorching hot Central Otago summer days. Double-glazing, underfloor heating and a raised gas fireplace in the lounge make the house supersnug. Sheepskin rugs, large couches and a rabbit fur throw add to the sumptuous comfort of the living area.
The luxurious master bedroom has an Agape tear-shaped bath by the floor-to-ceiling window where you can bathe under the starry night sky. The bathrooms have glass-walled showers and views of the mountains and the inquisitive alpacas that inhabit a nearby paddock, along with a large tribe of rabbits.
The spa pool in the courtyard was a favourite place. It was quite surreal to soak in the pool surrounded by snow in mid-summer, the aftermath of a cyclone which the wedding dodged by just 12 hours.
Hall, an enthusiastic supporter of New Zealand art, sculpture and architecture, has enriched the property inside and out and has many eyecatching artworks on display. The axeman in the orchard by sculptor Hannah Kidd constantly caught my eye, as well as a huge red elephant by Gaye Roberts and, in the alpaca paddock, a driftwood circle by environmental artist Martin Hill.
Comfort factor
Te Ariki Nui is a sublimely comfortable, stylish holiday home for all seasons – far enough away from Wanaka to feel remote and rural yet close enough to pop into town for lunch or dinner.
I loved the simple, clean lines of the house – the dull sheen of the polished concrete floors, the tall beech doors and glazing, and the minimal adornment. Its understated elegance allows the splendour of the natural environment to take centre stage. The house catered splendidly for our family group of eight and was an excellent base for pre- and post-wedding events.
Food
The Wanaka region is synonymous with fine wines and cuisine. Within an hour’s drive of the township, there are
myriad world-class wineries and eateries. We have experienced most of them but this time we discovered the extraordinary Wild Earth Kitchen at the historic Goldfields Mining Centre in the Kawarau Gorge near Cromwell.
The chefs there steam, bake, grill and smoke wild and traditional meat, seafood and vegetables in retired French oak pinot noir wine barrels or ‘‘stoakers’', using a unique technique invented by founder Quintin Quider. Watching the chefs prepare and cook the food in the stoakers was almost as much fun as the savouring the colourful, richly-flavoursome dishes.
Our delicious menu began with canapes of beef short rib sliders with a celeriac remoulade; tomato and mozzarella with a basil pesto; game meatballs with a spicy tomato sauce; and barrel-grilled cheese sandwiches