Kiwis in flight

An appreciation for Akaroa’s water babies.

I’m bobbing up and down in the sea at the entrance to Akaroa Harbour. I feel a bit like a floating nibble for anything passing by with sharp teeth.

Then I remember a bizarre fact: vending machines cause more deaths than sharks. Yes, some people accidentally rock them when removing their snacks – and are crushed. A Great White Vending Machine doesn’t have quite the same ring.

We’re at Akaroa to see Hector’s dolphins, one of the rarest in the world. Estimates put their remaining population somewhere between 8000 and 15,000, and they’re a close relative to the critically endangered Ma¯ ui dolphin, of which only about 50 are thought to be left.

I can’t see the Hector’s dolphins in the dark blue waters, but they apparently know exactly where we are. These tiny dolphins, like all others, send out short click sounds that bounce off objects in the water and echo back, so they know exactly what’s out there and how far away it is. It’s similar to the technology in autonomous cars, except it’s been around for millions of years.

We’re told that when the dolphins are ready to play, they’ll come over to us.

We don’t have to wait long. Within 30 seconds they start popping up all around us, making little circles as if giving us a hug.

We found three pods of dolphins before this one, but they weren’t interested in the boat so we left. These are wild animal interactions the way they should be. Nothing is forced. If baby dolphins are around, we won’t be in the water either. And we’re not allowed to use food to attract them – the dolphins will play around us on their own terms.

Unfortunately, they don’t use their sonars all the time, which is thought to be one of the reasons they get caught in set nets – their biggest threat. Hector’s dolphins have similar-sized lungs to humans, so if they get caught in fishing gear and are unable to surface, they soon drown.

Our 40 minutes with New Zealand’s ‘‘kiwi of the sea’’ goes quickly – as we get out of the water, they swim right up to the boat as if they don’t want it to end. We return to Akaroa, and defrost with hot showers and warm the soul with fish and chips on the wharf, finishing with some of the area’s famous fudge.

I love Akaroa but there is so much more to Banks Peninsula than the quaint little French town. There are dozens of breathtaking walks through the steep volcanic landscape, and boutique accommodation is popping up all over the outer bays, such as our little escape, The Green Antler, a luxurious glamping retreat.

The large safari tent perched on the side of a valley at Little River can fit up to five in two bedrooms and, with an indoor fire and grand dining area, it really has an emphasis on the glamorous side of camping. But the best feature is undoubtedly the wood-fired, four-person hot tub overlooking the valley and bay. It takes four hours to heat but is then the perfect place to soak and watch the stars – with very little light pollution.

The campsite is within a deer farm and about 100 deer roam the neighbouring hills. At certain times of the year, the bucks call loudly to show their dominance, which echo through the valley.

With no electricity – just solar power for lights – enforced relaxation is the only option.

Can you remember the last time you woke up, sat and read a book in the sun, then fell asleep on the deck to gentle countryside sounds? Now that’s medicine for the soul.

BROOK SABIN The glamping accommodation can fit up to five.

BROOK SABIN Banks Peninsula has numerous paper roads to explore, each offering fantastic views.

PHOTOS: BLACK CAT CRUISES Hector’s dolphins are usually found in groups of two to 12. The females don’t start breeding until seven to nine years old, then only produce a calf every two to four years.