Unsung gems waiting for you
Louise Southerden says these destinations are likely to benefit from your tourist dollars – and you’ll be assured of a warm reception.
We’ve all been there. And wished we hadn’t been. Standing elbow-to-elbow with fellow travellers, breathing in ‘‘eau de tourist’’, seething at selfiesticks protruding from the sea of heads like periscopes, and wishing that everyone else had just stayed home and left Angkor Wat, the Eiffel Tower or Machu Picchu in peace.
Overtourism is the buzzword of our time, thanks in large part to travel being more affordable and the world being more accessible than ever. And it shows no sign of abating.
Last year, international tourist arrivals worldwide reached 1.4 billion, two years ahead of schedule, according to the UN World Tourism Organisation. France, the world’s most popular country, is expecting a record 100 million visitors a year by 2020; 30 million people will step aboard cruise ships this year; and destinations from Rome to Reykjavik are straining under the weight.
By putting what’s been called an ‘‘invisible burden’’ on the places we visit, overtourism is the antithesis of responsible tourism.
It’s not as simple as avoiding certain places at certain times of the year – though that’s a good start. All over the world, travel companies are working with local, regional and national governments to find solutions, relocating cruise ship berths outside city centres, imposing limits on Airbnb rentals, issuing fines for anti-social behaviour, even creating apps to help tourists avoid each other.
To cope with the 30 million tourists it receives, Venice installed crowd-control gates last year and will start charging daytrippers up to €10 a day from May 1. And Thailand’s Maya Bay on Phi Phi Island near Krabi has closed indefinitely to let its damaged marine environment recover from overtourism.
Some operators are urging tourists to take roads less travelled. Intrepid recently launched two ‘‘Not Hot Travel Lists’’ to ease the pressure on betterknown destinations in Europe and Asia, recommending anti-hotspots such as Cyprus instead of Croatia, and Uzbekistan’s Unesco-listed Bukhara instead of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.
World Expeditions has noticed increased demand for its exploratory trips in remote regions such as the Changla Himal in far western Nepal, and for alternative trails such as Peru’s Salkantay Trek (instead of the Inca Trail) and the Italian Camino (instead of the busy French/Spanish Way).
In January, the World Tourism Organisation itself even took action, launching an Association for Culture and Heritage (wtach.org) to protect unique cultures and historical sites, and encourage respect for host communities.
‘‘It’s as much about how you travel, as where,’’ says Matt Cameron-Smith, managing director of Trafalgar, whose tours often visit big-ticket landmarks such as Vatican City when they’re closed, and include regional areas as well as cities to give back to local communities.
Cruise ships cop a lot of flak for overwhelming port cities such as Dubrovnik, but ‘‘the vast majority of cruise destinations worldwide don’t face serious concerns from tourism’’, claims Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) managing director Australasia Joel Katz. Having said that, CLIA and individual cruise lines strive to maximise the economic benefits of cruising to the destinations visited and manage visitation impacts.
The good news is that there are still plenty of ‘‘undertouristed’’ places. Some have long been bridesmaids to more popular neighbours. Some are recovering from natural disasters or civil wars. Others have just been too remote or unusual to attract visitors until now.
Jordan
Why it wants you: Jordan is a small, politically stable country sharing its borders with serious headline-makers: Syria, Iraq, Israel and the West Bank, and Saudi Arabia. Tourism slumped by more than 60 per cent during the Syrian civil war and, while it’s picking up, even Petra isn’t as busy as it used to be.
What to see and do: Petra is a must, an otherworldly archaeological park carved from pink sandstone more than 2000 years ago. Visit the Mars-like landscape of Wadi Rum, the Roman ruins at Jerash, the salty Dead Sea and the dive resorts of Aqaba. To experience Bedouin culture, stay at award-winning Feynan Ecolodge. There’s also an emerging adventure scene featuring longdistance trekking and mountain-bike trails that opened in 2017.
When to go: Anytime, but March to May to avoid the heat and the rains.
Tread carefully: When visiting Petra, stay in Wadi Musa to walk to the World Heritage site early or late in the day for the best light and fewer tourists. The Jordan Pass includes discounted entry to 40 attractions, see jordanpass.jo.
Essentials: Experience Jordan runs nine-day Dana to Petra treks on part of the new Jordan Trail. See experiencejordan.com.
Nepal
Why it wants you: Nepal is rebuilding after the magnitude-7.8 earthquake in April 2015. More than 5000 people died and hundreds of thousands were left homeless, particularly in Kathmandu and the Langtang Valley, north of the capital.
What to see and do: Guided trekking originated in Nepal in the 1960s, and it’s still the best way to see this Himalayan country. Consider sidestepping the busiest regions – Everest, the Annapurnas and the Langtang Valley – for treks around Makalu, Manaslu and Kanchenjunga.
When to go: Spring (March-May) tends to be less busy than autumn (September-November) when clear skies ramp up the mountain views. Winter trekking can be magical and uncrowded, if you can handle extreme cold, particularly at night.
Tread carefully: Teahouse treks and camping treks support local communities in different ways, but camping helps reduce deforestation caused by using wood for fuel.
Essentials: World Expeditions’ new Self-guided Everest Treks offer the experience of walking at your own pace, staying at exclusive eco-camps. See worldexpeditions.com.
Indonesia
Why it wants you: Indonesia is one of the most undertouristed countries in the world relative to its population, according to Intrepid’s 2018 Adventure Travel Index. It’s been promoting ‘‘10 new Balis’’ but two rising stars, Lombok and Tanjung Lesung off Java, were hit late last year by an earthquake and a tsunami respectively, and need visitors to help them get back on their feet.
What to see and do: Indonesia’s ‘‘new Balis’’ include Borobudur, the world’s largest temple, in central Java; volcanic Mt Bromo in eastern Java; and the Thousand Islands off Jakarta. Then there’s Komodo, famed for its ancient tribes as well as its dragons; Sumatra, where you can see wild orangutans; and the limestone islands of Raja Ampat, West Papua, an emerging dive destination with some of the world’s healthiest coral reefs.
When to go: If you don’t mind an occasional tropical downpour, you’ll see fewer tourists during the November-April low season.
Tread carefully: Plastic pollution recently prompted Bali to ban single-use plastics. BYO reusable water bottle, coffee cup and bags.
Essentials: Southern Sea Ventures runs 10-day live-aboard sea kayaking and dive trips in Raja Ampat. See southernseaventures.com.
Egypt
Why it wants you: Tourism slowed to a trickle after the Arab Spring, particularly when Australian journalist Peter Greste was imprisoned in 2014-15. After a terrorist attack in December,
SafeTravel (safetravel.govt.nz) advises travellers to ‘‘reconsider your need to travel’’, but Egypt is ‘‘no less safe than Paris or London’’, says Dennis Bunnik, who has visited 20 times.
What to see and do: With 5000 years of history, Egypt is an Indiana Jones of a destination. It has the Great Pyramids of Giza, the Sphinx, the hieroglyphic-lined Karnak Temple, and the Valley of the Kings. Sail down the Nile on a felucca, ride a camel at sunset past the pyramids, and haggle at Cairo’s Khan El-Khalili bazaar.
When to go: October to February, to avoid searing summer temperatures.
Tread carefully: If you visit during Ramadan, May 5 to June 4 this year, dress conservatively and don’t eat or drink outside from sunrise to sunset.
Essentials: Bunnik Tours has several smallgroup Egypt trips such as the 17-day Egypt in Depth. See bunniktours.com.au.
Papua New Guinea
Why it wants you: PNG is one of the world’s most undertouristed destinations, receiving fewer than 200,000 visitors a year due to its reputation for crime, corruption and occasional clashes between rival cultural groups. Then there’s the Australian government’s controversial refugee detention centre on Manus Island, off the north coast.
What to see and do: Visit islands inhabited by some of the friendliest people in the Pacific, surf camps on New Ireland (see nusaislandretreat.com), dive resorts in Milne Bay near Alotau (tawali.com), war history and active volcanoes around Rabaul, and events that bring together people who speak more than 800 languages. Port Moresby has a new Hilton Hotel, dining precinct, and Ela Beach.
When to go: Avoid the wet season, OctoberMay.
Tread carefully: Minimise your time in Port Moresby and don’t walk around alone at night.
Essentials: No Roads’ 16-day Three Peaks Trek is an alternative to Kokoda and includes climbing the 4509-metre Mt Wilhelm, PNG’s highest peak. See noroads.com.au.
Iran
Why it wants you: Iran has long had a PR problem and Trump’s Muslim travel ban and United States sanctions the United Nations has called ‘‘unjust and harmful’’ haven’t helped. Iranians are incredibly welcoming and many speak English. People will run up to you in the street, shake your hand and thank you for visiting.
What to see and do: One of the world’s most intriguing countries, Iran has incredible Islamic architecture, buzzing bazaars, a sophisticated culinary scene, snow-capped mountains north of Tehran, the ancient capital of Shiraz with its Pink Mosque and the city-palace complex of Persepolis, idyllic Persian Gulf beaches such as Qeshm and Kish, and Esfahan, the world’s most beautiful city.
When to go: Spring (March-May) or autumn (September-November).
Tread carefully: SafeTravel advises ‘‘reconsidering your need to travel’’ but you can reduce the perceived risk by joining a group tour. Female travellers need to wear headscarves but Iran is less conservative than you’d think.
Essentials: Intrepid Travel recently launched 12-day, women-only trips to Iran.
See intrepidtravel.com.
Myanmar
Why it wants you: Tourism has slumped since late 2017 because of violence against the Muslim Rohingya people in northern Rakhine State and the ongoing refugee crisis.
What to see and do: The multicultural capital Yangon, formerly Rangoon, is jam-packed with pagodas, synagogues, mosques, cathedrals and British colonial hotels such as The Strand. See the floating gardens and stilt houses on Inle Lake. Drift over the temples of Bagan in a hot-air balloon. Myanmar’s remote Mergui Archipelago offers new experiences such as sea kayaking trips (see expeditionengineering.com) and cruising on a solar-powered yacht (burmaboating.com).
When to go: Avoid the hurricane season (MayJune) and rainy season (July-October).
Tread carefully: Choose an ethical operator who pays its guides well and supports locals.
Essentials: Intrepid Travel’s 15-day Best of Myanmar trips include a visit to Intrepid’s first community-based tourism project there, helping four rural communities. See intrepidtravel.com.
Turkey
Why it wants you: Turkey fell off the travel radar after an attempted coup in 2016 and terrorist attacks in Istanbul and Ankara. But things are looking up: Istanbul’s massive new international airport opened in October, and new hotels have been built.
What to see and do: Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities, dominated by Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the Grand Bazaar. The archaeological site of Troy is celebrating 20 years since its World Heritage listing with a new museum that opened last year and a calendar of events this year. Then there are the Hobbit-like caves of Cappadocia.
When to go: Summers are long in Turkey and the busiest time is mid-April to mid-September so dodge the crowds by visiting in spring or autumn.
Tread carefully: Avoid all-inclusive resorts on the over-developed Aegean and Mediterranean coasts in favour of more sustainable lodgings.
Essentials: See goturkeytourism.com.