Christmas markets offer festive cheer
For a little festive cheer away from home, try an alternative Yuletide destinations in the heart of Europe.
Lille, France
This northern French city has a Flemish streak (take a train from Brussels in 20 minutes), so it’s fine to increase your winter padding with a Christmas waffle. (That’s a thing, right?)
The Christmas markets here are some of France’s best and if, like me, you come from London, it’s only an 80-minute train ride. Around 90 wooden ‘‘chalets’’ take over Place Rihour, selling handicrafts from as far as Canada and Russia, nativity ornaments, regional French delicacies like duck cassoulet and raclette and, of course, vin chaud (mulled wine).
Local dish le welsh (beer-soaked bread topped with ham, bubbling local cheese sauce and an egg, and put in a large ramekin and grilled) is prime winter food and best served at Ma Reine restaurant. The festive ferris wheel offers views of the gigantic Christmas tree and across the tiled roofs of the city. Chill out at La Piscine Museum in nearby Roubaix, a gallery housed in a refurbished art deco public pool.
Where to stay: L’Arbre Voyageur has refurbished rooms in the old town, a short hop from the Eurostar terminal, from around $200 a night. Mama Shelter has quirky, design-led abodes from $118 a night and is a short stroll to the Christmas Markets.
Baden-Baden, Germany
On the edge of the Black Forest, lies a town with a touch of French flair named Baden-Baden. In midwinter, its elevation means snow is likely, to ensure your white Christmas dreams come true.
The markets border the pedestrianised main street, and spread throughout the sprawling city park, Lichtentaler Allee. You can’t miss the aromas of gingerbread and roasted almonds, just follow your nose.
Try the delicious langos (fried bread with sour cream, garlic and cheese) for lunch. To escape the Christmas oompah band, head for a sans-clothing soak and steam at Friedrichsbad, or if you’re flush, the five-star Brenner’s spa resort.
Where to stay: Roomers Hotel has large, wellappointed rooms a short stroll from the city centre from $370, including breakfast and access to its spa.
A more budget-friendly option is Hotel Bischoff, for $148 a night, in the city centre.
Bolzano, Italy
Beyond the Italian Lakes but before the Dolomites is Bolzano. These Christmas markets show off the artisan produce of the mountainous region, and Piazza Walther has a dedicated space out of the cold, where the craftsmen can be watched while they create everything from wooden statues to decorations. As this is Italy, food takes centre stage, but with a German edge, so expect strudel, gnocchi and sausages, as well as apple fritters, to devour while you meander through the 80 or so stalls and extra gastronomy tents.
Where to stay: Cooper Apartments is just minutes from the Christmas markets in the city centre. A penthouse apartment, which sleeps four, costs $200 a night in peak Advent season.
Zagreb, Croatia
You don’t normally associate the Balkans with Christmas markets, but there’s a growing buzz around the light-filled spectacle that Croatia’s capital Zagreb puts on each year.
For five weeks from the end of November, the city is awash with twinkling lights, as Christmas stalls and live music fill the central streets.
The pedestrian zone of European Square and Zrinjevac Park is transformed with lanterns and chalets selling hot chocolates, handmade ornaments and Christmas cookies.
The Ice Park on Tomislav Square is a great place to work off the gingerbread snacks, while a wander up tree-lined Strossmayer Promenade at dusk will allow you to see each crafted street lamp be lit by hand. A baked strukli (cheese pastry) is a must-try, but wash it down with a warming schnapps, instead of mulled wine. Being off-thebeaten track, Croatia makes for a great value Christmas break
Where to stay: Room DeLuxe has doubles in the Old Town from $80 a night and is a six-minute walk from the Christmas markets. The five-star Westin is great value at around $150 a night.