Dunedin offers you the world
It’s likely that most of the world will be off limits for at least the next 12 months, as the Covid-19 pandemic continues to rage. But do not despair, a trip to Otago can take you on a world journey without the jet lag. In three days, we went to 10 different ‘‘countries’’ all within a short distance of Dunedin.
Scotland: Larnach Castle
I’ve been lucky enough to stay in a few castles in Europe, so I wasn’t expecting much on my first visit to New Zealand’s only castle. But I was wrong.
Larnach Castle would look at home in any European country, and this one has a fascinating history.
At just 34, William Larnach sailed from Australia to New Zealand during the Gold Rush, to become the manager of the Bank of Otago.
Larnach eventually had interests in banking, shipping, farming, property, and politics. He even became a cabinet minister.
Two hundred men took three years to build the shell of his castle, and a European artisan spent a further 12 years agonising over every detail on the inside. And it shows, the castle is full of period drama, you can even walk right up to the turret.
Larnach had many ups and downs in business and his personal life, and ended up locking himself in a room at Parliament and taking his own life.
Today, the castle is a magnificent tribute, where you can go for a day visit, a three-course dinner, or even stay the night in a nearby lodge, stable or luxury stone manor – all on the castle grounds.
Egypt: Pyramids
Pyramids, in New Zealand? Yeah, right! Next you’ll be telling me the Leaning Tower of Gore has been unearthed.
After being told of Dunedin’s pyramids, I had to investigate.
If you’ve ever been lucky enough to experience the Pyramids of Giza, you’ll know it’s an almost biblical experience to see them at sunrise. So, I headed to Dunedin’s Okia Reserve before dawn.
Slowly, as the sun came up, two perfectly formed triangles appeared in the mist. Cue dramatic music: we’d arrived at the ‘‘ancient Pyramids of Dunedin’’.
And sorry Egypt, but ours are older – by more than 10 million years.
The Otago region was once home to enormous volcanic activity. This helped form the two almost perfectly geometric pyramids made of basalt columns. There’s even a track to walk up to the peak of the smallest pyramid.
While at Okia Reserve, keep walking to nearby Victory Beach. It’s one of only two places outside the Auckland Islands where New Zealand sea lions give birth. It’s also a significant habitat for yellow-eyed penguins, one of the world’s rarest species of penguin.
Sri Lanka: Orokonui Ecosanctuary cloud forest
The moment I stepped inside Orokonui Ecosanctuary, I knew I was in for a treat. A pair of takahe¯ wandered straight up to me for an inspection, which is a rare sight as it’s thought there are fewer than 500 left in the country.
The predator-free sanctuary is home to some of our other rarest birds, reptiles and plants – such as kiwi and tuatara.
Orokonui is a cloud forest, meaning its peaks are usually shrouded in mist. It reminded me of Sri
Lanka’s jungle-covered mountains, minus the snakes. The sanctuary is also a breeding ground for our rarest kiwi, the Haast tokoeka. In the wild, only 5 per cent of chicks reach adulthood. Here, that number is much higher, and after they are big enough to defend themselves, they’re taken back to South Westland.
The sanctuary has short and multi-hour walks.
China: The Lan Yuan Chinese garden
New Zealand’s only genuine Chinese garden is in the heart of Dunedin. It was created as a tribute to Chinese settlers who arrived in the region during the Gold Rush, then stayed on to invest in the city.
Incredibly, the sizeable complex was built in China on an identical site, then dismantled and shipped to New Zealand where it was put together again by artisans from Shanghai.
Chinese gardens are always impressive – like walking through a miniature world where every detail is finely balanced.
But this garden is different from any other in the country – it’s a masterpiece.
England: Olveston Historic Home
The unexpected highlight of our ‘‘world tour’’ of Dunedin was Olveston Historic Home, which was
like entering a time portal to the early-1900s.
The sprawling mansion was built by a famed British architect for the wealthy Theomin family, who travelled the world collecting rare artefacts for their home.
It is like walking through the set of hit TV show Downton Abbey.
Almost nothing has changed since the Theomins’ time, essentially making it a time capsule.
The entry to the house is adorned with impressive shields, swords and guns, and the grand dining room is an almost carbon copy of the one on
Downton Abbey.
Melbourne: Eateries
The city has a thriving collection of excellent eateries with a Melbourne-like vibe.
The new Tı¯tı¯ restaurant is exceptional; the chefs work with local farmers and fisherman to create a ‘‘trust the chef’’ menu that’s just $35.
You’ll enjoy such creations as agria potato gnocchi with heirloom carrot, kale and pea pesto alongside a dessert of roast hazelnut mousse. A three-course dinner is $55.
There’s a plentiful selection of excellent brunch spots, such as Vogel St Kitchen, but Buster Greens is unmissable.
The fried chicken benedict is a superb mix of kimchi, poached eggs and fried chicken on a homemade crumpet. It’s enough to give you fuel for a full day of adventure.
Netherlands: Beer tour and tasting
If you enjoy beer, a trip to Dunedin isn’t complete without a stop at the Speight’s Brewery, where you can enjoy 141 years of brewing history.
The format of the tour is almost identical to one I did a few years ago in Amsterdam, the birthplace of Heineken.
You’ll be taken through the old factory, home to traditional techniques and equipment, before being shown how modern brewing works. At the end, you’ll get to taste four different styles and flavours.
Ireland: The Organ Pipes
The Organ Pipes track is a steep walk through thick native bush. After about an hour, you’ll arrive at an outstanding collection of hundreds of basalt columns, created during the formation of Otago Peninsula.
Many of these pillars have fallen, creating an enormous pile, but those remaining look like organ pipes towering into the sky. It reminds me of the dramatic, brooding landscapes of Ireland.
Italy: Doctors Point Reserve
This windswept stretch of coast, less than half an hour from the city, is home to sea arches, sea caves and little blue penguins.
The caves are similar to Coromandel’s Cathedral Cove, except these are off the radar to all but locals.
Visit at low tide, so you can make your way around to see more of the arches and caves. It’s a little like Italy’s dramatic Amalfi Coast, minus the crazy drivers.
Sydney: St Clair Hot Salt Water Pool
This outdoor pool, right next to the beach, is similar to Sydney’s famous Bondi Baths, except these pools are tucked down the end of St Clair Beach without any fanfare.
The pools will reopen next month but, in the meantime, the promenade still has excellent cafes to grab a coffee for a stroll along the almost tropical looking white sand St Clair Beach.
You’ll often find the Patti’s & Cream icecream truck along the waterfront and, if you have a sweet tooth, it’s criminal to miss sampling the small-batch handcrafted flavours, such as caramel ribbon and doughnut raspberry ripple.
The writer travelled courtesy of DunedinNZ and this story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Tourism New Zealand.