Sunday Star-Times

Horsing around on the Coast

- Pamela Wade pancake-rocks.co.nz/horse-treks

Whether you’re a proper rider or a passenger, Punakaiki Horse Treks rides are a great way, with minimal effort, to get up close with some of the West Coast’s spectacula­r nature.

You’re matched with a suitable horse, instructio­n is given, and then you’re away up the Punakaiki River – splashing through the water and zigzagging along the valley.

A winding trail takes you through lush bush full of ferns, nı¯kau palms and big rimu and ra¯ta¯ trees, and across open grassy areas to a rustic bush hut for a rest and refreshmen­ts. Then mount up again for the return trip back and along the beach, getting a close look at the area’s distinctiv­e rock formations towering above you.

There will be birds in the trees and on the beach, and there may be seals.

Why go?

Because horses played an important part in the history of the West Coast, and that’s just one of the things you will learn from the cheerful conversati­on with your guides as you ride along. They’ll make sure you feel relaxed and confident, and give you tips to help you enjoy the ride.

The guides will also take plenty of photos of you for post-ride boasting.

Insider tip

If you’re in a group with novices, and you can convince your guide you’re an experience­d rider, you will get your chance for some fast fun on the beach at the end.

On the way/nearby

You must visit Punakaiki’s Pancake Rocks, less than a kilometre up the road. The ancient limestone layers reach peak grandeur, whittled by wind and waves into satisfying shapes, complete with startling blowholes and an excitingly dangerous surge pool below.

In the cafe across the road, you can even get a plateful of the edible version. If you fancy two legs instead of four, there are walking and tramping tracks through Paparoa National Park and along that spectacula­r coast – the Punakaiki Cavern Walk is a popular one, but do take a torch. You can go on a guided tour to see a petrel colony in action at sunrise or sunset, and take advantage of the lack of light pollution to do a night sky tour.

How much?

The 21⁄ 2- hour group trek costs $200 a person, morning or afternoon. For a personalis­ed ride, the price is $250 a person. In each case, the minimum is two people. Led beach rides for children cost $60. The season runs until May, and it’s advisable to book ahead in summer. The maximum weight for a rider is 95kg.

Best time to go

A fine day works best, but don’t worry if it is blustery: it will just make the return along the beach more spectacula­r as the waves roll in.

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