Grand touring through Otago
Brook Sabin and Radha Engling
Hallelujah, thank the travel gods. They have invented the Otago Central Rail Trail for cars. I’ve always wanted to bike Otago’s legendary cycle trail, but it turns out I’m not really built for cycling.
I get wedgies that almost require hospital care, and my legs turn into planks of wood the moment I get off the bike, meaning I walk around like the Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz.
But none of that matters any longer because I can now see it using four-wheel transport on a new signposted touring route that encompasses many of Otago’s magical little mining towns.
And it’s easily one of the country’s most spectacular road trips.
It’s officially known as the Central Otago Touring Route, and the 341-kilometre drive links Dunedin to Queenstown, weaving through a fascinating snowcapped hinterland that’s rich in history and spectacular scenery.
Day 1
Start in Dunedin. While you can do this journey either way, beginning at the Pacific Ocean and winding your way towards the Southern Alps has a certain romance about it.
You will want to start by exploring the Otago Peninsula. Here, you can visit Larnach Castle, the world’s only mainland albatross colony, as well as beautiful seaside towns like Portobello.
Tour the fascinating central city full of gothicstyle architecture before making your way to Tunnel Beach, where you can walk down a hand-dug tunnel to a secluded bay.
For a night you’ll never forget, return to Larnach
Castle, which has budget options at The Stable through to five-star luxury at Camp Estate.
Day 2
Head back into Dunedin for a Melbourne-style brunch at Buster Greens. Everything is exceptional, but I would highly recommend the fried chicken benedict. It’s a superb mix of kimchi, poached eggs and fried chicken on top of a homemade crumpet.
Now it’s time to turn inland for the touring route towards Queenstown. Take State Highway 87 towards Middlemarch, making a quick diversion to New Zealand’s only inland salt lake at Sutton.
The two-hectare lake looks like it’s in the middle of Area 51, surrounded by a barren landscape that’s punctuated by dramatic schist formations. It’s also a great chance to stretch the legs.
Then continue to the quirky little Victorian-style town of Middlemarch, the official start (or end) of the Otago Central Rail Trail. After a quick lunch, it’s on to a jewel in Otago’s crown: Naseby.
This is a little community that enjoys life. Nowhere is that more on display than at the indoor curling rink, the only one of its kind in the southern hemisphere.
Curling is a big deal in this part of the world. The sport involves sliding a ‘‘stone’’ on ice towards a target, while people with brooms help guide it.
I have about as much grace as a hippopotamus on rollerskates when it comes to anything involving ice. But, to my surprise, anyone can give curling a go with just a few minutes’ training, and you wear grip shoes so you don’t need to worry about falling over.
We were given a quick lesson, which went a bit like this: Glide the stone down towards the circle then, if you want it to go faster, your teammate will start sweeping the ice, which warms it up and makes the stone go faster. If you want it to slow down just stop sweeping.
Your teenagers will be superb at this. If you’ve ever told them they couldn’t go out until they sweep the house, you’ll know they are very capable of fast action with a broom. In Naseby, that kind of skill can win you an Olympic medal.
After an hour or so on the ice, continue your drive towards historic Ranfurly. The town became an economic hub during the goldrush, and after a series of suspicious fires in the 1930s, a colourful splash of art deco buildings popped up, some of which still line the main street.
As it’s part of the rail trail, there are plenty of comfortable hotels and lodges to spend the night.
Day 3
This is my favourite leg of the road trip, beginning with a quick diversion to St Bathans. The tiny town of about 10 permanent residents was once a place of riches. As the relentless march for gold swept across Otago in the mid-1800s, early prospectors struck the jackpot in what was originally called Dunstan Creek.
What began as a tent city and ‘‘pigsty’’, soon transformed into a boomtown with 13 hotels, a hospital, two banks, and many other businesses, including women who worked at night.
One of those, Rose, was based at the Vulcan Hotel and, as the story goes, she was brutally murdered. Legend has it, she haunts men who stay at the hotel now.
You’ll notice the iconic hotel as soon as you enter the town, and it’s worth a stop for lunch to have a chat to the owners about its fascinating history.
The mud-brick building was built in 1882 and remained operational until last year when Covid-19
hit and a business sale went sour, causing its temporary closure.
However, the hotel is open again, and has a sunsoaked outdoor area next to the town’s main attraction – its emerald lake.
By the 1930s, miners had created the deepest mining pit in the southern hemisphere nearby, but it had started to encroach on the town so it was abandoned and allowed to slowly fill with water.
The remaining minerals in the soil haven given the lake a distinctive emerald colour and, combined with the exposed cliffs, the landscape has an almost lunar-like appearance.
After lunch, take a stroll around the lake before driving 30 minutes down the road to Omakau. An excellent microbrewery has popped up in the town’s historic hotel.
Weave your way towards the mountains where Central Otago’s most picturesque town, Clyde, will be your home for the night.
While accommodation options are plentiful, I’d recommend treating yourself to the new five-star heritage hotel, The Lord Clyde, which would rival the best boutique stays in any large city.
Across the road is Olivers restaurant, which celebrates simple food done exceptionally well.
Day 4
After a short scenic drive through a steep gorge, you will arrive in Cromwell, one of the most exciting mountain towns in the region. It’s like Queenstown 40 years ago.
Start with a visit to the arid but strikingly beautiful Bannockburn area, which is home to a vibrant collection of vineyards specialising in pinot noir.
The town is also within driving distance of five skifields and, later this year, a spectacular day-long bike ride from Cromwell to Clyde will open – the Lake Dunstan Trail. Engineers have built an impressive cantilevered platform hanging from sheer rock on part of the track.
One of Cromwell’s major attractions is the worldclass raceway at Highlands, where you can take to the wheel (or be driven) in a race car.
If you prefer a slower afternoon, the heritage precinct has a delicious selection of cafes to grab a bite and coffee while walking around the lakefront.
For a night to remember, stay at one of New Zealand’s only overwater hotels. Heritage Collection Lake Resort has large villas that sit out over a small lagoon on Lake Dunstan.
It’s a far cry from the overwater villas of Bora Bora in French Polynesia, but with the snowcapped peaks of Mt Pisa as a backdrop, it’s full of atmosphere.
Day 5
The final leg of this road trip is the 50-minute drive to Queenstown, which is one of the best places to get a travel deal at the moment.
You can experience a helicopter ride, complete with an alpine landing, for $150.
Hour-long scenic flights to Milford Sound are just $279, and unlimited luge rides for the day are $89. There’s also no shortage of accommodation deals available, so you can end your road trip in style.
Brook Sabin and Radha Engling travelled the length of New Zealand on a Stuff Travel nationwide road trip in a new Hyundai Kona Electric. The vehicle has 449km of real-world range on a single charge, for more information visit hyundai.co.nz/kona-electric.