THE START/ FINISH LINE
Here’s Brett Atkinson’s guide to where to eat and drink in New Zealand’s most popular ski towns before and after hitting the slopes.
NORTH ISLAND OHAKUNE
Kick start the day at Volcano Coffee Roasters at the Craft Haus, an interesting multibusiness destination located at Ohakune’s historic railway station. Combine an espresso with a stonking eclair, and say g’day to friendly canine manager Ivan the samoyed. There’s also stylish outdoor apparel from Ohakune-based Opus Fresh and craft beer from the Ruapehu Brewing nano-brewery. Around 3km south in Ohakune township, gourmet burgers are served from late afternoon at the Blind Finch Hamburgeria. Everything is cooked on a wood-fired grill. Try the spicy General Lee with Nashvillestyle buttermilk-fried chicken. Later at night, the Powderkeg Bar at the Powderhorn Chateau is the energetic hub of Ohakune’s winter nightlife scene. To try brews like Ruapehu Brewing’s Lord of Darkness stout, head to the Kings Ohakune pub. facebook.com/crafthaus facebook.com/theblindfinch facebook.com/powderkegbar kingsohakune.co.nz
SOUTH ISLAND METHVEN
Co-owned by Kiwi entertainment legend Dame Lynda Topp and her wife Donna Luxton, the spacious Topp Country Cafe is best enjoyed on a sunny winter’s morning. Donna looks after front of house, but there’s a good chance Dame Lynda will be on deck as well. Sprawling big breakfasts combine with daily muffin specials. Booking ahead for dinner is recommended at the wildly popular Aqua, a compact izakaya (Japanese-style pub) serving up warming bowls of soba noodles, deep-fried karaage chicken and steaming plates of dumplings. A few doors down, The Dubliner fills Methven’s former post office with plenty of Irish craic. Occasional live music is fuelled by a steady f low of Murphy’s Stout.
Search for Topp Country Cafe on Facebook facebook.com/AquaMethven dubliner.co.nz
QUEENSTOWN
Near the departure point for the Skyline Gondola, Bespoke Kitchen’s elevated position affords brilliant mountain views of the Remarkables. An all-day menu travels from cinnamon-spiced pancakes to pulled lamb flatbreads, and there’s counter food aplenty for a takeaway lunch on the slopes. A short rideshare from town, Sherwood harnesses its own organic gardens and locally sourced produce for savvy seasonal menus. Natural wines and Southern Lakes craft beers combine with dishes including wood-fired flatbreads, smoked fish croquettes and house-made duck sausage. Back in town, the long-running Bardeaux is an after-dark standout with leather armchairs, Central Otago schist, and a roaring open fire showcasing a drinks list focused on whisky and a fine selection of pinot noir. facebook.com/Bespokekitchenqueenstown sherwoodqueenstown.nz facebook.com/bardeauxqt
ARROWTOWN
Provisions’ sticky buns are (deservedly) world-famous-in-Arrowtown, but there’s plenty more to enjoy at this historic miners’ cottage. If the sun’s shining, sit at an outside table and prepare for a day at Coronet Peak or Cardrona with the eggs benedict with maple-glazed ham. For dinner, the cosy and elegant Aosta is a collaboration between chef Ben Bayly and Arrowtown resident and jewellery retailer Sir Michael Hill. Referencing the alpine valley of Aosta in northern Italy, the menu
teams seasonal pasta with secondi showcasing New Zealand lamb, pork and venison. The wine list rightly offers the best of Central Otago. In the Fork & Tap’s 150-year-old building, 19 beer taps focusing on the best of Kiwi beer are reached by a short stroll along Arrowtown’s historic main street. provisionsofarrowtown.co.nz aosta.co.nz theforkandtap.co.nz
WĀNAKA
Down a laneway off Wānaka’s main street, Federal Diner is ideal for the first coffee of the day. Secure a spot on one of the shared tables and tuck into Betty’s bacon butty or the warming flavours of the comfort kedgeree with smoked fish and a poached egg. A short stroll away, kika is Wānaka’s most inventive evening restaurant, with a diverse shared plates menu underpinned by Mediterranean and Asian flavours. The Te Mana lamb shoulder with preserved lemon, rosemary and chilli is a perfect choice for winter. Adjourn to Gordon Rd, a short hop south of the lake, for craft beers at Rhyme X Reason and Ground Up. Ask about winter seasonal brews at Rhyme X Reason or try Ground Up’s Mac Talla Wee Heavy Scotch Ale made with peatsmoked malt. federaldiner.co.nz kika.nz rhymeandreason.beer groundup.co.nz