WINTER WONDERLANDS
Many of Aotearoa’s highways, byways, railways and skyways become even more spectacular during the cooler months. Brett Atkinson is our guide.
RIDE THE SKY WAKA GONDOLA UP MT RUAPEHU
Many travellers’ first winter views of Tongariro National Park include a snowcapped Mt Ruapehu glistening across Lake Taupō. A further 100km south along the lake’s eastern shore, the promise of those early vistas is revealed at Whakapapa Village. New Zealand’s longest gondola travels for 1.8km up the mountain, passing frozen waterfalls and through mountain mist to emerge at the country’s highest cafe and restaurant at the Knoll Ridge Chalet.
Don’t miss
Adjourning for High Tea at the Ruapehu Lounge at the heritage Chateau Tongariro Hotel, originally opened in 1925.
DISCOVER TARANAKI’S SURF HIGHWAY 45
Keep a snowcapped Mt Taranaki on your left on a journey from New Plymouth to Hawera, and you can’t go wrong. Hopefully, the maunga’s perfect volcanic peak will be cloud-free as you negotiate Taranaki’s Surf
Highway, taking time to detour down side roads to the skeletal remains of the SS Gairloch shipwreck just south of Ōakura, or the Cape Egmont Lighthouse at Pungarehu on Taranaki’s western-most point. Look forward to brisk westerlies and a winter Tasman swell rolling in all the way from Australia.
Don’t miss
Two of regional New Zealand’s best galleries and museums, the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre in New Plymouth, and the Tawhiti Museum in Hāwera.
TAKE THE TRANZALPINE FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO GREYMOUTH
Negotiating a careful east-west route through the Southern Alps, the TranzAlpine is one of the world’s most spectacular oneday train journeys. During winter, the serrated peaks framing Arthur’s Pass are crowned with snow, while the broad valley of the Waimakariri River is often shrouded in shapeshifting banks of mist. Day return trips are popular, but the TranzAlpine is also a fine way to begin a journey exploring the West Coast.
Don’t miss
Wrapping up warmly to be immersed in the superb views from the train’s open-air viewing carriage.
ENJOY HOT POOLS, WINTER SPORTS AND STARGAZING AT LAKE TEKAPO
At the heart of the Mackenzie Country, winter is a superb time to visit Lake Tekapo.
Relax in the hot pools at Tekapo Springs – three separate pools are shaped like the different lakes of the region, Ohau, Tekapo and Pūkaki – or take part in winter sports including ice skating and snow tubing. Pristine winter night skies are also ideal for stargazing.
Don’t miss
At the head of nearby Lake Pukaki, the Ngāi Tahu Lake Pukaki Centre showcases the region’s historical, geological and Māori cultural heritage. Take in brilliant lake and mountain views from the centre’s windows.
WAKE UP IN AORAKI/ MT COOK VILLAGE
While it’s fine to visit Aoraki/Mt Cook village from either Twizel or Lake Tekapo as a day trip, waking up surrounded by some of the Southern Alps’ highest snowcapped peaks is a superior winter experience. Accommodation ranges from the alpine luxury of The Hermitage Hotel to DOC’s White Horse Hill campsite, and you’re guaranteed an early start on popular walks like the Hooker Valley Track. Always check conditions with the local DOC office before setting out.
Don’t miss
Learning about the life and legacy of one of New Zealand’s finest sons at the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre at The Hermitage Hotel.
DRIVE FROM QUEENSTOWN TO GLENORCHY
Travelling to Queenstown, there’s a good chance your plane’s final approach will be
flying at low level down Lake Wakatipu. It’s also a fine vista explored in a car, as the road to Glenorchy meanders for almost 50km around a series of sylvan coves. Cooler months see indigo heights including Walter Peak and Mt Nicholas dusted with snow, while the village cafes of Glenorchy are warmed by open fires.
Don’t miss
Exploring walking trails around Glenorchy. Allow around an hour for the Routeburn Nature Walk, a family-friendly taste of scenery similar to the Routeburn Track.
NEGOTIATE THE CROWN RANGE FROM QUEENSTOWN TO WĀNAKA
Definitely check road conditions before setting off – it may be mandatory to equip your vehicle with tyre chains – before tackling the switchbacks and twist and turns of this popular mountain route. The highest point is at 1121 metres, with turn-offs and parking bays en route providing views south to the snowcapped Remarkables and west towards the Wakatipu Basin.
Don’t miss
Taking a tour of the Cardrona Distillery, and sampling its whisky, gin, vodka and liqueurs. Cardrona valley alpine water and locally foraged ingredients are both harnessed for the distillery’s range.
EXPLORE MILFORD SOUND
Milford Sound is popular during spring and summer, but visiting during cooler months is both underrated and surprising. Days can be crisp, cool and clear, with snow dusting Mitre Peak and the surrounding forests. Even getting there can be an adventure. Coursing through the Southern Alps, SH94 linking Te Anau with Milford Sound is one of the highest roads in the country, and snow ploughs are sometimes used to open it to traffic. During winter, check online with Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency for the latest conditions. Tyre chains may be needed.
Don’t miss
Kayaking with
Rosco’s Milford Kayaks.
There’s less tourist boat traffic on the sound during winter, and more settled weather conditions often mean calm water. Winter morning tours with Rosco’s run from Friday to Monday.
NEGOTIATE THE CATLINS BY CAR
The rugged southeastern tip of the South Island is arguably at its best when the winds are stronger and the seas are higher. En route from Dunedin to Invercargill, spy on seals and sea lions lounging beneath the Nugget Point Lighthouse at Kaka Point, or take a 20-minute hike through windswept farmland to Slope Point, the South Island’s actual most southerly point (sorry, Bluff).
Don’t miss
Experiencing the Petrified Forest, a Jurassicera stand of preserved tree stumps south of Curio Bay. It’s best seen around four hours either side of low tide.
SEE TE WAHIPOUNAMUSOUTH WEST NEW ZEALAND FROM ABOVE
The Unesco World Heritage-listed Te Wahipounamu-Southwest New Zealand region encompasses four national parks and covers more than 26,000sqkm, and is best seen on a scenic flight from airports including Queenstown, Wānaka, Te Anau, Aoraki/Mt Cook and Glacier Country. Snow
and glacier landings are possible year-round, but winter’s combination of snowcapped peaks, leviathan glaciers and misty alpine lakes makes the experience even more special.
Don’t miss
Raising a toast to flying above one of the planet’s most spectacular wilderness areas at Southern Lakes bars, including Queenstown’s Bardeaux or Wānaka’s Rhyme X Reason.
WHO WILL YOU BE TOMORROW? THE ONE WHO ENJOYS WINTER IN THE WAITAKI.