On the East Coast road again
What did I learn after driving around New Zealand for 100 days over the past summer? There is so much more to see. In particular, one stretch of road comes to mind – a section of the Pacific Coast Highway between Gisborne and Napier.
Locals told me of many hidden gems I had never heard of, such as secret hot springs, New Zealand’s own Pride Rock (from The Lion King) , and a new rail-biking adventure. So, as soon as I got that chance, I hit the road again to see what I had missed.
Starting in Gisborne
Gisborne is one of the few cities in New Zealand that has seen an increase in visitors during the pandemic. It’s busier than ever. Kiwis flocked to beaches, little-known vineyards, and the Rere Rockslide, the longest natural slide in the country.
Part of the reason Gisborne has been so busy is that Kiwis love a hidden gem. But what happens when these special places become, well, not so hidden? The answer is you dig a little deeper. Forget hidden gems, we found some local secrets.
Beachfront bliss
The region is home to one of the country’s most affordable beachfront glamping spots. Tucked away on the golden coast, 15 minutes from Gisborne, is Tatapouri Bay. It’s a camping ground with big plans, including soon-to-be-launched luxury Zen cabins.
The Lotus tents, a few steps from the water, are from $150 a night, and have one of the best soundtracks to fall asleep to – lapping waves. While these tents are out of action for the winter, you can rent a pod from $150. You also get access to a beachfront hot tub!
New Zealand’s Noah’s ark
If there was ever a nuclear holocaust, a little slice of Gisborne could be a glimmer of hope. That was the thought of Douglas Cook, who spent more than five decades amassing an enormous collection of trees and plants from around the world to repopulate destroyed species.
The Eastwoodhill Arboretum now has more than 25,000 species of trees, shrubs and climber plants, and is believed to hold the most extensive collection of northern hemisphere trees in the southern hemisphere, including 16 critically endangered species. A visit to the 135-hectare property will have you feeling like you’re in a Japanese forest one moment, then Central America the next.
The forest is like Noah’s ark for trees; if a forest fire or natural disaster wiped out a species offshore, there’s a possibility this arboreal oasis would be called upon for a cutting to help repopulate.
Treasures of Taira¯whiti
Not all museums are created equal. Some become
Fact file
Playing there:
■ Eastwoodhill Arboretum is $15 for adults, and kids $2.
Visit eastwoodhill.org.nz.
■ Taira¯whiti Museum is $5 for adults, and 12 and under are free. Locals can get free access. Visit tairawhitimuseum.org.nz.
■ Gisborne Railbike Adventure on the Mahia Coastal Track is $110 for a standard bike, $130 for an ebike. Visit railbikes.nz.
■ Mo¯ rere Hot Springs is open six days a week, closed Tuesdays. From $14 per person. Visit facebook.com/MorereHotSprings.
■ A Bell Rock guide can be found on DOC’s website. Visit doc.govt.nz. Where to stay:
■ Tatapouri Bay. Glamping from $150, reopens from Labour weekend. Zen cabins, log cabins, and pods operate through winter. Visit tatapouri.co.nz.
■ Mo¯ rere Lodge: Holiday cabins near the hot pools from $110 for two. Visit morerelodge.co.nz.
■ Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier is from $186. Visit masonic.co.nz.
■ Clifton Glamping is from $350 a night. Visit cliftonglamping.co.nz. stagnant, others push the limit. Taira¯ whiti Museum falls in the latter category.
One of the museum’s standout exhibits is Tu¯ te Whaihanga, an astonishing collection of Ma¯ ori taonga taken back to Europe more than 200 years ago – some of which are from Captain Cook’s Endeavour.
It includes hoe (paddles), kaitaka (cloak) and a poupou (carved panel). The items are on loan from European museums and were meant to be returned last year, but Covid-19 has delayed that, meaning you still have a chance to see these treasures.
One of the museum’s other popular displays can be found through a small door. The Star of Canada was wrecked off Gisborne’s coast in 1912, and the museum is home to its two-storey wheelhouse, which you can walk through.
A rocket ride (on rail)
Now you have discovered a few of Gisborne’s really hidden gems, it’s time to head towards Hawke’s Bay on the Pacific Highway.
An hour south is Ma¯ hia Peninsula, a hilly landscape surrounded by rocky coast and golden beaches. Most people associate this part of the world with New Zealand’s version of Nasa: Rocket Lab.
Gisborne Railbiking wants to put the region on the map for a new reason: a spectacular adventure.
Railbiking is easy. A world-first design sees two
push bikes fused together on a rail line, with a steel chassis holding them in place. You can’t fall off.
The ride starts along the rugged coast before crossing a 200-metre bridge and weaving slowly up into the hills, offering spectacular views of the expansive beaches below.
The three-hour return journey is best done on an electric bike (the extra $20 to go electric is very much worth it).
While in Ma¯ hia, head to a secluded beach for a walk (or swim, if you’re brave in the colder months).
The best bit is that you probably won’t see another human. We had the whole main beach, of about five kilometres, to ourselves.
There are few places in the world you can do that.
A hidden hot spring
Tucked away in the tiny village of Mo¯ rere is a remarkable series of hot springs where ancient sea water bubbles up. Yes, sea water.
The pools, run by a lovely bunch of alwayssmiling Department of Conservation staff, are set on 364 hectares of rainforest. But you won’t need to walk far as the main public pools are just a 10-minute walk from the car park.
And while private hot pools in some parts of New Zealand can cost more than $100, here it’s just $18. I love regional New Zealand.
Pride Rock
Bell Rock is a little like New Zealand’s own Pride Rock from The Lion King.
It’s a three-hour return walk that starts with a beautiful, but sometimes steep, tramp through lush bush.
After one last hill, you’re greeted by a series of enormous rocks on the side of the cliff overlooking a vast hinterland.
Most people walk out on to the rocks, which are open to the public, but the Department of Conservation warns ‘‘extreme care is required’’, and children must be supervised.
If you have more time, and a little more energy to burn, you can also head to nearby Shine Falls, which is the largest waterfall in the region.
Art deco Napier
Continue along the highway as it weaves back towards the coast and down to Napier.
Hawke’s Bay is the scene of New Zealand’s deadliest disaster – the 1931 earthquake that killed 256, injured thousands, and destroyed most buildings in Napier.
For a new art deco-inspired city to rise from the ashes in just two years, despite little insurance and the ongoing fallout of the Great Depression, was remarkable. It’s arguably one of the country’s greatest achievements.
Don’t miss spending at least a night in the city regarded as the best celebration of art deco in the southern hemisphere. It’s like walking around one big open-air museum. It’s certainly not a hidden gem, but it can’t be missed.
The emperor’s tent
End the trip living like an early emperor at Clifton Glamping.
This luxury glamping retreat can be found at the base of Cape Kidnappers, on a private farm in its own little valley. The safari tent has everything you need for a winter escape: an indoor fire, enormous comfy bed, and an outdoor firepit and bath for stargazing.
Four excellent wineries are a five-minute drive away, but Clifton has done everything so well that you won’t want to leave. Grab a drink next to the fire, then head for an early night in the super-soft bed, and fall asleep to the rustle of trees. It’s bliss.
The writer’s trip was supported by Trust Tairawhiti and Hawke’s Bay NZ.
This story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Get Out More NZ, encouraging Kiwis to see more of the Central North Island.