Blue True Aussie stunners
The Blue Mountains have long been a popular destination for New Zealanders as well as Australians, but there is much more to this beautiful area than some mighty big rocks, writes Julie Miller.
In July 1904, flamboyant Sydney retailer Mark Foy ushered guests into his fleet of shiny motor vehicles to make an arduous, snowstruck journey from Penrith to Medlow Bath to celebrate the launch of Australia’s first dedicated spa resort.
The birth of the Hydro Majestic Hotel, originally known as the Medlow Bath Hydropathic Establishment, would usher in a golden age of tourism in New South Wales’ Blue Mountains, as the well-heeled sought respite from the city.
From the ultimate in luxury during the decadent 1920s, to intra-war honeymoon capital and family favourite in the 1950s and 1960s, the Blue Mountains has endured as Sydney’s most beloved weekend escape. Evergreen attractions such as The Three Sisters and the Scenic Railway have appeared in happy snaps for generations.
Foreign visitors also made a beeline for the rugged sandstone plateau on Sydney’s western flank, dashing up the Great Western Highway for a peek at the scenery and an obligatory selfie in front of the legendary rock siblings before returning to the city, exhausted but satisfied they had ‘‘done’’ the Blue Mountains.
Of course, last year’s double-whammy of bushfires and the pandemic saw that bubble burst with a vengeance. But as domestic travel restrictions eased, Sydneysiders with itchy feet and cabin fever largely filled the international void, and weekend occupancy at least returned to capacity.
The challenge now is for businesses suddenly dependent on Antipodean clientele to keep their offerings relevant, to convince jaded visitors that there’s more to the mountains than three jagged peaks and a lot of trees.
With more than a million hectares in the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area, there are plenty of hidden nooks to explore. Even in the main towns, new restaurants, cafes and interpretive tours promise a richer perspective on this ancient landscape.
At the risk of infuriating Blue Mountains residents, here are some favourite attractions in the region – some new, others well-established but underrated – and all adding complexity to the visitor experience. Of course, some secrets are too precious to share. You will have to discover them yourself, but these will give you a head start.
Megalong Valley wineries
Why we love it: If there are cellar doors in Australia with better views than Megalong Valley’s Dryridge Estate and Megalong Creek Estate, I’m yet to discover them. Gazing out over the vines, sipping on homegrown vintages as the sun illuminates the distant escarpment is the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon.
Need to know: Dryridge Estate offers a ‘‘wine experience’’, tasting eight of its current vintages as you soak up the incredible vista over a cheese platter or charcuterie board. Neighbouring Megalong Creek Estate features visiting food trucks to complement its rustic cellar door tastings of wines made by Jacob Stein.
How to get there: Tackle the hairpin bends from Blackheath down into Megalong Valley, passing through temperate rainforest and farmland until you get to Six Foot Track, where the wineries are located.
Essentials: The cellar doors are open on weekends or by appointment. Dryridge tastings are $10 a person; Megalong Creek tastings are free. Visit dryridge.com.au; megalongcreekestate.com.
If you prefer not to drive, the Megalong Valley Shuttle does pickups from hotels in Leura and Katoomba. Visit fantastic-aussie-tours.com.au.
Blue Mountains Cultural Centre, Katoomba
Why we love it: It’s a cool, modern gallery space and an excellent, interpretive World Heritage exhibition, offering respite from the elements while supporting the local arts community.
Need to know: Tucked away above the Katoomba Coles supermarket, and accessed from the main street via a laneway newly adorned with murals, this regional art gallery deserves a higher profile, with major touring, regional and local exhibitions. Into the Blue explores the Blue Mountains’ World Heritage status with an impressive audio-visual display.
How to get there: Enter from the laneway, with elevator or stair access.
Essentials: An entry fee of $5 covers admission into the art gallery and Into the Blue, with proceeds assisting exhibiting artists. Visit bluemountainsculturalcentre.com.au.
Centennial Glen horse riding, Kanimbla Valley
Why we love it: Enjoy the Blue Mountains from a unique perspective, traversing open paddocks and tranquil trails brimming with wildlife from a horse’s saddle or a sulky.
Need to know: Blackheath’s western escarpment plummets into another stunning hidden valley, Kanimbla. Based on farmland that has been in the Commens family since 1900, Centennial Glen Stables offers one-hour to full-day trail rides. One-and-a-half hour sunset rides are the best way to capture the ever-changing palette of the sandstone escarpment. Non-riders can learn to drive a sulky for a taste of life in the good old days.
How to get there: A 20-minute drive from Blackheath on a winding road through temperate rainforest. The last four kilometres are on a bumpy dirt road.
Essentials: The trail rides cost $80 for an hour. The Sunset Ride is $130 a person. Stay in selfcontained accommodation at neighbouring Woolshed Cabins, which are architect-designed eco-cottages with uninterrupted views of the misty valley. Visit centennialglenstables.com; woolshedcabins.com.au.
Tread Lightly Eco Tours, Medlow Bath
Why we love it: A bushwalk takes on new dimensions under the guidance of NSW’s first Advanced Ecotourism-accredited tour company, Tread Lightly Eco Tours.
Need to know: With a background in ecology, fire and rescue, and sustainable tourism, life-long mountains resident Tim Tranter puts the environment under the microscope as he shares lesser-known trails in the Blue Mountains. Each tour is designed according to the desires of the client. A tour with Tranter and his knowledgeable guides will enhance the wilderness experience for even well-versed bushwalkers, for immersion in the natural and indigenous history and geology of the World Heritage-listed region.
How to get there: Tread Lightly operates walks anywhere in the Blue Mountains World Heritage Area.
Essentials: Tours with Tread Lightly are currently private to comply with Covid regulations. A two-hour Wilderness Walk starts from $70 a person for a party of four. Visit treadlightly.com.au.
Mount Vic Flicks, Mt Victoria
Why we love it: This old-fashioned, independent cinema in a historic community hall features art house movies served with choc tops and cups of tea in real china.
Need to know: This treasured Upper Mountains icon is a vestige of the golden age of cinema, capturing the intimate picture show experience of rural Australia’s past. Heated in winter and air-conditioned in summer, it’s the perfect place to ride out inclement weather. Friendly snack bar staff are known to walk the aisles during a heatwave, spraying a fine mist over grateful moviegoers.
How to get there: Mount Vic Flicks is just off the main street of Mt Victoria in the old community hall.
Essentials: Adult tickets are just $14.
Visit mountvicflicks.com.au.
Arrana, Springwood
Why we love it: This new fine-dining restaurant in Springwood fills the void in the Lower Mountains for a quality food experience.
Need to know: After serving his apprenticeship at the hatted Como in the town of Blaxland, and fine-tuning his skills at five-star Hamilton Island Queensland resort Qualia, 26-year-old executive chef Daniel Cabban has returned to create a menu inspired by the Blue Mountains landscape and incorporating indigenous ingredients. There are two degustation menus – the seven-course Marri, and the four-course Darrbi – and vegetarian and vegan options are available. Knowledgeable wait staff and unexpected flavours make for a worthwhile dining experience.
How to get there: Arrana is hidden in an arcade on Springwood’s main drag, but don’t let the humble location fool you.
Essentials: Arrana is open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Sunday. The Darrbi four-course menu is $108 a person and the Marri seven-course meal $150 a person. A two-course lunch special is $75. Visit arrana.com.au.
Waterfall Circuit, Lawson
Why we love it: Waterfall Circuit is a family and dog-friendly trail that takes in four crystalclear waterfalls where you can dip your toes as you breathe in rejuvenating negative ions.
Need to know: There are more than
10,000 permanent waterfalls in the Blue Mountains. Some, such as Empress Falls and Minnehaha Falls, plummet into massive rock pools for those brave enough to take the icy plunge. This two-and-a-half kilometre circuit track in South Lawson, which is well off the tourist trail and beloved by locals, visits four terraced cascades: Adelina, Junction, Federal and Cataract falls, which are particularly impressive after rain.
How to get there: There are two starting points from Honour Ave, Lawson, each with their own car parks.
Essentials: The track can get muddy after rain, so wear suitable footwear. As it’s on Blue Mountains City Council land, the track is also dogfriendly. Visit visitbluemountains.com.au; visitnsw.com.
Cafe 92 at The Conservation Hut
Why we love it: This humble cafe at the trailhead of Valley of the Waters in Wentworth Falls has not only one of the best views in the mountains, but serves a halfway decent breakfast and lunch menu.
Need to know: The Conservation Hut has been a meeting place for bushwalkers since the 1960s when a conservation society took over a derelict tearoom as an education centre. Now in a mudbrick building on National Parks and Wildlife Service land, and leased to a private operator, the cafe has stunning views across misty Jamison Valley from an open deck, with a log fire to warm up after a brisk winter’s walk. On Sundays, from 1pm to 3pm, jazz musicians compete with a chorus of cicadas.
How to get there: Park in the National Parks car park in Fletcher St, Wentworth Falls.
Essentials: Open from 10am-4pm daily. Visit nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
Lookouts without crowds
Why we love it: Step away from the selfiesnatching crowds to discover different perspectives of iconic landmarks.
Need to know: While the vision of
The Three Sisters sunbathing in afternoon light from Echo Point is the Blue Mountains’ most worthy attraction, you can also view them from the Elysian and Olympian rocks at Leura. For a more distant money shot of the Sisters and Jamison Valley, pull into Eagle Hawk Lookout on Cliff Drive. Other contenders for great views without crowds include Hargraves Lookout above Megalong Valley and Boar’s Head Rock for views across Narrow Neck Peninsula.
How to get there: Follow the scenic drive along the southern escarpment of the Blue Mountains to discover lesser-known viewpoints.
Essentials: Plan your visits for late afternoon or sunset for the best photographic opportunities. Visit visitbluemountains.com.au; visitnsw.com.
Blue Mountains Stargazing tour
Why we love it: Pollution-free skies and a lack of ambient light makes the Blue Mountains a dark sky wonderland, and a tour led by an astrophysicist reveals an infinite universe after dark.
Need to know: Enjoy the twin wonders of the sun setting over the Jamison Valley and the dazzling diamonds of the Milky Way on this engaging and educational tour, hosted by French astrophysicist Dimitri Douchin and his fiancee, Caroline Boulom. Peer through a professional telescope to witness details of planets, star clusters and the moon, while the timeless dance of celestial bodies is brought to life through ancient storytelling.
How to get there: Sunset Stargazing tours are held at the lookout at Wentworth Falls picnic area from Friday to Sunday (weather dependent), and nightly during school holidays. Family Stargazing nights are at The Bunker Cafe, Leura, on Thursday nights.
Essentials: A 90-minute Sunset Stargazing Tour is from $75 a person. Suitable for all ages. Visit bluemountainsstargazing.com.au.
– traveller.com.au
The writer was a guest of Destination NSW and Blue Mountains Tourism. See visitnsw.com; visitbluemountains.com.au.
This story was published as part of an editorial partnership with Qantas.