Sunday Star-Times

So good you could bottle it

- Pamela Wade

Everyone is familiar with that iconic brown bottle with its bold yellow label. Lemon and Paeroa, or L&P, has featured in the fridges of dairies for nearly a century, fizzing sweetly on our tongues throughout the country and, in its advertisin­g, giving us the versatile slogan: World Famous in New Zealand.

Its main ingredient is the carbonated mineral water collected from a spring at the Coromandel town of Paeroa, bubbling up with just the right proportion of magnesium bicarbonat­e to blend with a squeeze of lemon juice.

The water was first marketed in 1910 and, though the local L&P factory closed in 1980, with the company now part of the global Coca-Cola franchise, it still has a big presence in the town – literally.

Why go?

Because although there is a lot more to this town than the famous big bottle, it is an obligatory stop for every visitor.

Towering overhead at around seven metres high, it is solidly made from concrete rings, and was intended as a feature for promoting the town. It has performed this function splendidly, and must have been photograph­ed millions of times since it was built in 1969.

It is now in O¯ hinemuri Reserve, a much safer location than the original, in the middle of State Highway 2, although, because of the bottle’s selfie-magnet properties, it may yet move again closer to the centre of town.

Insider tip

The spring is still bubbling away, but you can’t access it now to mix your own drink, so leave your lemons at home. And don’t be fooled by the other, smaller, giant bottle outside the L&P Cafe.

On the way/nearby

Paeroa is well worth a wander. There are lovely art galleries, and a big focus on antiques and secondhand goods in a cluster of shops.

The History Society Museum covers Paeroa’s past, from its birth after the O¯ hinemuri goldfield discovery in 1875. As well as L&P memorabili­a, the museum has unexpected items, including Royal Albert china and a collection of bras (Berlei had a local factory).

For another angle on the past, visit the Historical Maritime Park where the town’s unique status as an inland port is recorded inside a lovely building, and out on the river, which Captain James Cook explored in 1769. You can explore it too, in classic comfort onboard the park’s Tamati paddle boat.

Paeroa is on the Hauraki Rail Trail, an achievable and interestin­g five-day route between the Firth of Thames and Matamata, easily done in sections. Less energetica­lly, drive through Karangahak­e Gorge with its tunnels, mining history and spectacula­r views.

Try some of the shorter walks there, such as to the striking Victoria Battery, which processed gold ore.

How much?

Free to photograph, although you really shouldn’t leave town without at least buying some L&P, at about $4 for the classic bottle.

Best time to go

Anytime. Visit thecoroman­del.com.

Staying safe: New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictio­ns. Face coverings are mandatory on all flights and public transport. Proof of vaccinatio­n may be required in some venues. Follow the instructio­ns at covid19.govt.nz.

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