Coromandel’s hidden gems
Coromandel is renowned for its pristine beaches and trendy towns such as Whitianga. However, off the beaten track, we discovered a heartland full of hidden gems. Here are our favourites.
A canyon of wonders
Just outside Paeroa is a lush canyon full of spectacular walks that has it all: suspension bridges, tunnels, historical relics, and pristine native bush. Welcome to Karangahake Gorge.
The most popular walk is the Rail Tunnel Loop. This 11⁄2-hour trail follows the O¯ hinemuri River before disappearing into an enormous hill, where you will walk through an old 1.1km rail tunnel.
If you are OK with heights and small spaces, you also need to try the Windows Walk.
This takes you through a hand-dug mining tunnel high in the gorge cliff. There are ‘‘windows’’ where the tunnel emerges from the cliff, offering spectacular views of the river below. The walk is partially closed for urgent repairs, but you can still access the tunnels via the Crown Tramway Track. Check the Department of Conservation website for the latest update on the track.
If you prefer biking, there is an excellent day trip that encompasses the best of the gorge. Rent a bike in Paeroa, before jumping on the Hauraki Rail Trail. This off-road track will have you at the gorge in just over 30 minutes.
You can then bike through the rail tunnel and cycle for another 20 minutes to Falls Retreat for an award-winning paddock-to-plate dining experience. The restaurant offers a ‘‘feast lunch’’ at the weekend (two courses for $60), including a decadent grazing board. Leave enough time to enjoy dessert and a glass of wine.
You will follow the same trail back to Paeroa, with the option to pull over and explore Windows Walk on foot.
You can, of course, simply drive to the restaurant. But doing the whole trip by bike means you can experience a taste of the Hauraki Rail Trail, Windows Walk, and restaurant in one hit.
Move over L&P
Paeroa is, of course, best known for being the birthplace of a famous drink: L&P. However, there is a new kid on the block stealing a bit of attention. Could Paeroa become famous for pies?
Providence Pantry has just opened on the town’s main street, and it is run by chef Rensha Bouwer, who was recently in charge of the kitchen at Waiheke vineyard restaurant, Casita Miro.
Bouwer moved to Paeroa to be closer to her parents, and her mum even makes a regular guest appearance in the kitchen to help create delicious sweet treats, such as caramel apple oat slice, passionfruit almond cheesecake, and the best Russian fudge you will ever try.
But the highlight is the pies, which are overflowing with flavour. The mince and cheese is the best we have tasted, and the chicken and bacon is also unmissable. Get in quick, because these sell out.
Secret surf towns
If you are looking for a quiet beachside community with great food and incredible beaches, set your sights on Ku¯ aotunu.
This coastal township is in the northeast of the peninsula, with no shortage of empty golden beaches to explore. Our favourite was nearby O¯ tama Beach. There wasn’t a single person on the 2km stretch of sand when we arrived.
When you have built up an appetite, head back to Ku¯ aotunu to visit Luke’s Kitchen for the peninsula’s best pizza. Its laid-back rustic vibe feels like you are in Bali.
Head next door to Kua Kawhe, where you will find great coffee and smoothie bowls. ‘‘Kua’’ is what the locals call Ku¯ aotunu, and ‘‘kawhe’’ is Ma¯ ori for coffee.
If you have an industrial level sweet tooth, head to the Ku¯ aotunu Store, which serves 10 balls of icecream on a double cone for just $9. It is called the Ku¯ aotunu Killer. Yes, for the same price as a single scoop in some fancy Auckland gelataria, here you get a leaning tower of icecream. The biggest challenge is devouring it before the Coromandel sun does.
Driving Creek
Just outside Coromandel Town is one of the region’s must-see attractions: Driving Creek Railway. If you are looking for a day away from the beaches, the kids will love it there.
This extraordinary village is home to New Zealand’s only narrow-gauge mountain railway, a zipline course, and a fully-fledged pottery operation.
The late legendary potter, Barry Brickell, bought the property in 1973, and was particularly interested in the clay found on the upper slopes of the land. He constructed an elaborate railway to bring down the
raw materials, which was designed to be a replica of the O¯ ngarue Tramway. It got so big, it was opened as a tourist attraction.
Today, you can take a one-hour, 15-minute railway journey around the property, passing through tunnels and viaducts, making your way to the EyeFull Tower, a large platform that is 167 metres above sea level with sensational views.
For a little more adrenaline, try the ziplining course, which starts with a train ride up the hill before taking eight ziplines back down. You even get the chance to learn how to zipline upside down.
But the unexpected highlight of our time
exploring Driving Creek was pottery. For just $47, you can learn to make two pieces using a pottery wheel.
An expert tutor will take you through every step. If your eye-hand co-ordination is like mine, the session will be glazed with laughter. But we walked away with creations we were proud of, and having two goes shows how quickly you can improve.
Garden of Eden
A short drive off the main coastal road, 20 minutes from Thames, you will find a 26-hectare Garden of Eden that has been decades in the making.
The magnificent Rapaura Water Gardens has an enchanting walk that passes a vast lake of water lilies, then weaves through lush native forest to a waterfall known as the The Seven Stairs to Heaven. And best of all, there is no cellphone reception, so the only thing to connect with is nature.
Cheese, please
Just 20 minutes drive from Paeroa, you will find a little place called Matatoki, and the big cheese in town is, well, a cheese shop.
The Cheese Barn at Matatoki has so many awards, they are running out of space to display them, and the best way to experience their finest fromage is to nibble away at a cheese platter. And all the cheese is organic and made onsite.
The writer’s trip was supported by Destination Coromandel. Visit thecoromandel.com. This story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Tourism New Zealand.
Kiwis love hidden gems, so we are on a mission to find them. Undiscovered Aotearoa is a video-led series by Brook Sabin and Radha Engling to uncover the best bits of New Zealand you never knew about.