‘Adapt to survive’ K Rd favourite’s motto
‘‘We’re still looking at continuous disruption and difficulties.’’ John Pountney
Expertly-crafted, freshly made pasta set against a cosy, welcoming Karangahape Rd restaurant has been Cotto’s appeal ever since chef John Pountney gave his popup business a bricks-and-mortar home five years ago.
It was a combination that acquired the Auckland pasta house legions of fans, but one that came under fire when Covid-19 struck in 2020.
Pountney was forced to pivot, and regulars had to learn how to enjoy Cotto’s prized fare from the comfort of their own home instead.
At-home meal kits were part of his business ‘‘survival mode,’’ said Pountney, a stab in the dark at adaptation that just happened to be successful.
‘‘Everyone was making it up in the first lockdown, nobody then could have expected what was going to happen. The kits were just a way to keep some interest going and to make sure our customers knew we were still there, and they could have a bit of us at home.’’
Incorporating the kits, which comprised all the ingredients to put together two portions of ravioli, maltagliati, gnocchi or lasagne, with salad and focaccia sides, hadn’t been an easy decision.
It’s ‘‘incredibly hard’’ to make a takeaway restaurant work, said Pountney.
There were concerns over keeping ingredients fresh and delivering food that wouldn’t be true to Cotto form, so the at-home kits were only ever designed to be a short-term saviour to tide them over during a tough time.
As for the past two years, Pountney said things have been
difficult, and he is still ‘‘eternally grateful’’ for the government subsidy, which he said kept his and so many other businesses alive.
‘‘In the thick of the pandemic we went down to about a fifth of our turnover, which was for weeks and weeks on end. We’re just grateful for the support we’ve received, from customers and the Government,’’ he said.
‘‘Now every hospitality business is running at a loss without the Government.’’
Restaurants are now facing their ‘‘most difficult period’’ said Pountney, with dwindling customer numbers as a result of rising fears over safety, amidst the Omicron outbreak.
Pountney looks to other countries as an example, places where hospitality business is still yet to recover despite the pandemic essentially being bid farewell to.
‘‘I think it’s going to be incredibly difficult for trading circumstances going forward for the foreseeable future.’’
‘‘No matter what happens with Covid, we’re still looking at continuous disruption and difficulties, especially with prices going up,’’ he said, nodding to rising food costs affecting much of the city.
The restaurant may be up and running as normal for now, but for Cotto, a place renowned for its high quality dishes but accessible pricing, rising costs would serve as an extra blow after an already burdensome two years for business.
Regardless of what sits on the horizon for hospitality, Pountney insists the K Road favourite ‘‘will survive, absolutely,’’ because of its devoted, local clientele.
For others in the business who aren’t so self-assured, Pountney has some advice: ‘‘Be willing to do anything. Take any opportunity to be flexible, and don’t ever expect things to stay the same.’’