Waterfalls, glow-worms . . . and cheese
Until Lorna Thornber took a mini-break to South Waikato, she didn’t realise what a taonga for beautiful land and water trails it is.
The glowing maggots sure put on a good show. Floating between the narrow walls of the bush-covered canyon, our paddles resting on our laps as the current carried us through the deepening darkness, we were suddenly surrounded by pinpricks of bright white light to match the star-studded sky overhead.
Nothing disturbed the peace and quiet, except for the gentle trickle of invisible mini waterfalls. Even the chatty children in the group seemed to have been stunned into silence.
I had arrived at Riverside Adventures’ base on the banks of lower Lake Karᾱ piro that afternoon, not quite sure what to make of my upcoming adventure.
The evening kayak tour to a hidden glow-worm canyon sounded magical, but I wondered if the body would be up to it. The only real workout my arm muscles get these days is lifting cans from the kitchen cupboard, and I am weirdly intolerant to cold – my fingers drain of blood and go numb when my body temperature drops too low (thanks for nothing, Raynaud’s syndrome).
Thankfully, the team is prepared for tricky customers like myself. Our group of eight was handed waterproof pants, splash jackets, gloves and beanies before setting out. There were even thermals available for those not already wearing their own.
I needn’t have worried about my microscopic arm muscles either. Our guide Caleb stopped frequently to fill us in on the history of the area.
We were paddling, he told us, over the submerged village of Horahora, flooded in 1947 when the Karᾱ piro hydroelectric dam was completed. My kayak, he said, was positioned directly over the ruins of a three-storey power station, which is now a popular dive site despite housing eels Caleb said were as thick as his thighs.
Turning into the Pokaiwhenua Stream, it was easy to imagine we were travelling back to the time when local iwi displayed bodies along the river to ward off potential invaders. Creeper-covered walls closed in on us, and overhanging trees partially obscured the reddening sky as we made our way towards a clearing to refuel on pineapple chunks and wait for darkness to fully descend.
The upcoming light show, Caleb informed us, came courtesy of the larvae (maggots) of a fly known as the fungus gnat. Or, more precisely, of their bioluminescent poo. Fortunately, learning this, and that the maggots eat their siblings to get the energy to glow, didn’t detract from their beauty. Passing back through the canyon felt a bit like an astronaut must when floating through space – exhilarating and utterly mesmerising.
Based at the historic Okoroire Hot Springs Hotel just outside Tῑrau, I had started my South Waikato break with a hike to the top of the North Island’s highest waterfall. As a travel journalist, I am ashamed to say I hadn’t heard of Wairere Falls until I Googled walks in the area, and saw the three-hour return hike had rave reviews.
The 45-minute trail to the lookout follows a fastflowing stream though a fairytale-like forest of moss-covered tree trunks and rocks, passing impressive cascades before climbing steeply to the top of the falls.
The latter half of the trail is a natural Thighmaster, but the view from the top was well worth the grief. Standing beside or, if you are brave, in a natural infinity pool overlooking thick bush and emerald fields, you can’t help but feel you are living life on the edge. And eating lunch beside whitewater gushing over a 153-metre escarpment is quite the rush.
The following morning I made my way to Riverside Adventures’ base to tackle a section of the Waikato River Trails that passes farmland, native bush, pine forest, and a series of hydroelectric dams on their more than 100km from Ᾱtiamuri to Lake Karᾱpiro.
With plenty of ups, downs and tight corners, they are a more adventurous option than the nearby Hauraki Rail Trail, but there is plenty to satisfy easy riders like myself. The five sections range from easy to expert. With shuttles available to transport you to the section of your choosing, and quality cafes en route, they make for a great day – or days – out.
I love a good bike ride but I hadn’t ridden for about a year, so I walked the scenic but hilly section from Jones Landing to Arapuni before picking up my ebike for the rest of the 15km easy to intermediate Kara¯ piro section. After rediscovering my inner speed demon on the downhill sections amid sweet-smelling pines, I took a breather at the 152m-long Arapuni Suspension Bridge, with its dizzying views of the dam and raging river below, before continuing back to base.
I would have stopped to refuel at popular Rhubarb Cafe if it had been open but, as it wasn’t, I relied on my provided Em’s peanut chocolate bar to power me along a boardwalk through wetlands, gravel trails with views across to Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari, and riverside reserves temporarily home to what surely must have been some very happy campers.
No first-time trip to South Waikato is complete without a visit to the Blue Spring near Pu¯ ta¯ ruru, and it is well worth taking the long way around. It is a 15-minute walk to the spring from the Leslie Rd entrance, but the 4.7km Te Waihou Walkway from the Whites Rd car park traces a river at least as stunning as the star attraction.
I envied the ducks gliding across water so clear and blue that it seemed almost too pure to exist on this planet, but it is a good thing humans are banned from swimming in it – the spring supplies about 70% of New Zealand’s bottled water.
Flowing over underwater plants, the river’s blues and greens look like something Monet might have painted, and the colours get more vivid as you get closer to the spring. The clarity reflects its red light-absorbing optical purity.
If there is one thing that goes as well with cheese as wine it is outdoor exercise, so treat yourself to a visit to nearby Over The Moon Dairy when you are done. The award-winning dairy transforms milk from local cows, goats and buffalo into all manner of creamy delights. It is highcalorie work exploring the many natural wonders of the Waikato. You have earned it.