Highlights of a visit to Johannesburg
Tour by foot, on two wheels or tucked into the back of a colourful three-wheeled tuk-tuk as Katrina Lobley did in South Africa’s biggest city.
The one view
Africa’s highest urban bar is perched on the 57th floor of The Leonardo in Johannesburg’s cosmopolitan Sandton neighbourhood. Alto234 (named for its height in metres) is an open-air rooftop bar that opened last year.
Glam up to match the crowd and book in for a session such as the Sunset Experience (R330/NZ$32 a person, includes glass of Moet & Chandon). Nibble on tapas as you spot planes taking off from OR Tambo International Airport 20km to the east or pinpoint the Magaliesberg mountain range (incorporating the World Heritage-listed Cradle of Humankind) to the northwest.
Test out the cocktail list or grab a miniature Moet from the custom vending machine. See alto234.co.za.
The one restaurant
Only 300 metres from
The Leonardo is Saint, a vast 230-seat eatery/ champagne bar. The owners’ ‘‘crazy Italian’’ concept was to present a buzzy pizza-and-champagne joint (they were inspired after seeing a fashion designer in a Manhattan restaurant order this combo for himself and his entourage).
The wood-fired ovens from Naples produce the likes of seafood and garlic butter pizzas, and ‘‘white’’ pizzas topped with lamb shoulder, confit garlic and sumac yoghurt. Burrata can be added to any pizza order, and you can dance off any over-indulgence on nearby heaving dancefloors.
See saint.restaurant.
The one house/museum
Soweto’s Vilakazi St is famous for being the world’s only street to house two Nobel Prize laureates – Archbishop Desmond Tutu and former President Nelson Mandela.
After running the gauntlet of Zulu dancers who frequent the spot, see inside Mandela’s modest red-brick home where he lived – on and off – from 1946 until he was imprisoned in 1962. After his 1990 release, he returned to his ‘‘house of memories’’ for just 11 days.
See mandelahouse.com.
The one boutique hotel
Between 1992 and 1998, Mandela and family members lived in a house in the affluent Houghton Estate neighbourhood, where the streets are lined with jacarandas.
When he and wife Graca Machel moved on, the house became the Nelson Mandela Foundation’s headquarters before falling into disrepair.
The property was repurposed, last year reopening as a nine-room luxury hotel. Sanctuary Mandela also houses a 36-seat restaurant that serves some of Madiba’s favourite meals.
See sanctuarymandela.com.
The one tour
One way to reach Mandela House – and the nearby Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum commemorating the 1976 antiapartheid Soweto uprising – is with Lebo’s Soweto Backpacker Tours.
It offers three ways to explore Soweto: on foot, on two wheels or tucked into the back of a colourful three-wheeled tuk-tuk.
Day guests can choose between a twohour (R570) or four-hour (R690) guided tuktuk tour of Soweto, a township so vast it covers 200m2 of economically diverse neighbourhoods.
See sowetobackpackers.com.
The one township bar
Kick back and have fun grooving to township music at Chaf-Pozi. Located at the base of Soweto Towers (mural-covered twin towers that were once part of the Orlando power station), this shisa nyama (‘‘braai’’ or barbecue restaurant) serves delicious meats, cold beers and good times.
See chafpozi.co.za.
The one market
Fourways Farmers Market has relocated to the Modderfontein Reserve and it now claims to be Jo’burg’s prettiest market. There’s good reason for that as it has a farm-style entrance, bucolic lake views, a beer garden craftily angled so parents can keep an eye on the playground, food vendors slinging dishes from across the world, and birds flitting from tree to tree. It’s open weekends from 8am to 5pm, and has live music from 12.30pm to 4.30pm.
See ffmarket.co.za.
The one neighbourhood
To see why the Maboneng Precinct is lauded as a vibrant example of inner-city renewal, head to Arts on Main – a creative hub comprising artist studios, galleries, workshops and eateries. Afterwards, stroll the streets to spot the hundreds of murals that give this precinct its hip edge.
See artsonmain.co.za.
The one duty-free purchase
Sip the essence of South Africa back home with a wise selection from OR Tambo’s duty-free stores.
If you went on safari and fell in love with Amarula (a cream liqueur made from the fruit of the African marula tree which your guide might splash into your morning coffee), there’s every variation of it on sale here (Vegan, Ethiopian Coffee, Vanilla Spice and more).
Or pick up a bottle of Indlovu Gin with ‘‘elephant-foraged botanicals’’ (which means it’s infused with elephant dung).
See bigfivedutyfree.co.za.
One more thing
Across South Africa, you’ll hear the term ‘‘load shedding’’ – a reference to rolling blackouts used to conserve electricity since 2008. These power outages, which significantly worsened this year, are part of everyday life for South Africa’s 60 million residents.
Don’t be surprised to come across traffic lights that aren’t working, some ATMs without back-up power and other inconveniences. – traveller.com.au
Katrina Lobley was a guest of South African Tourism (see southafrica.net)