Renewed Spirit
One of NCL’s smaller cruise ships, the Norwegian Spirit is the perfect size for sailing the Pacific, and after a $158m revamp, it is looking sharp, writes Greg Fleming.
Like most of my fellow passengers boarding the newly refurbished Norwegian Spirit on a baking hot afternoon in Lautoka, Fiji, it had been three years since I had been on a cruise ship.
That is also the amount of time it had been since a Norwegian ship has been in Australasia.
While the spectre of Covid was all around us – each passenger had to show proof of vaccination and increased hygiene measures were evident throughout – there was no other indication of the virus that shut down the industry for close to two years.
If there is ever an upside to a pandemic, it might be that travel felt exciting again.
Cruisers on this six-night sailing from Fiji to Sydney were there to relax and rejuvenate, and were among the first to board Norwegian Spirit in this part of the world since its NZ$158 million bow-tostern refurbishment in 2020 – the most expensive and extensive yet undertaken by Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL).
That included 14 new venues, additional staterooms and an expanded Mandara Spa (tip – wait until near the end of the cruise if you want to save as that is when spa discounts are offered).
What is different about this refurbishment is that it extends throughout the ship, not just the public spaces.
Essentially, as far as guests are concerned, you are sailing on a brand-new ship, not just one with a quick exterior facelift. Everything, apart from the steel foundations, is new.
Our balcony stateroom was in immaculate condition – smart, modern and functional – with USB chargers by the bed, plenty of storage nooks and a powerful, if small, shower complete with L’Occitane products.
The ship also offers inside cabins, ocean-view cabins (without a balcony), and some impressive suites, which have a bath overlooking the ocean, his and her sinks, two large television sets and a separate lounge – much like a Haven suite on other NCL ships. Suites come with a butler and access to Cagney’s – NCL’s famed steak restaurant – for lunch and breakfast. (A note for regular NCL cruisers: There is no Haven class on Spirit.)
Although Spirit is the smallest ship in the Norwegian fleet, it still carries more than
2000 passengers. Size-wise it is just right, with plenty of space to move around, no queueing at the buffet, and it was easy to find a secluded space to read or just enjoy the Pacific views.
Freestyle dining
Dining-wise, things have been updated too. A late dinner at Onda by Scarpetta was a wonderful way to start our cruise.
Scarpetta is new to Spirit, and offers a range of Italian dishes, wonderful pizza (yes, good pizza on a cruise ship), and it has been given pride of place in a specially designed space at the aft of the ship on deck 13.
The only stop on this repositioning cruise was at Dravuni, a Fijian volcanic island less than 1km long. Guests were tendered in to spend an unforgettable day in what can only be described as an island paradise.
No ATMs, wifi, tourist stalls or restaurants. Just the Fiji that tourist brochures promise but rarely deliver – a beautiful beach, crystal-clear waters and amazing local hospitality.
Many of the island’s 150 residents were there to meet us with fresh coconut drinks, handmade crafts and songs.
It was hard to top that, but one way was to freshen up, grab a Starbucks coffee on the ship and enjoy a steak at Cagney’s, a New York-style steakhouse and one of the five specialty restaurants on board.
It had been four years since I had cruised on a NCL ship and, like many lines have done during the enforced layoff, it seems the menus have been edited and refreshed for the better.
There are also Asian-style restaurants on Spirit, the highlight of which was the Teppanyaki, which is a show and dinner in one. Our chef managed eggjuggling and singing Beatles songs, all while cooking perfect chicken, beef and fried rice on the grill.
It was also a great opportunity to interact with our fellow cruisers, mostly from North America and
Europe, but with quite a few Australians too.
If you are cruising on a budget, complimentary dining also offered a lot of options. There were amazing made-to-order omelettes to be had from the buffet dining area on deck 12, and a new addition – a 24/7 American-style eatery The Local – became our go-to favourite for a quick and tasty bite, serving some of the best burgers I have had at sea, and some pretty good fried chicken as a one-off ‘‘blue plate special’’ on one of our first sea days.
New Spirit
If you have Googled ‘‘Norwegian Spirit’’ beware, you may have seen images of the ship pre-refurbishment, when it really did look a little weary.
Disregard such images entirely, for the design, furnishings and overall style of the ship ensures it keeps pace with the latest in the NCL fleet, with the premier suites designed in collaboration with the team behind NCL’s newest ship, the much-praised Norwegian Prima.
Service-wise, Spirit has consistently ranked in the top three of all 18 Norwegian ships, and our onboard experience confirmed this was more than PR hype: Nothing was too much trouble.
Want a plain yoghurt when there isn’t any at the buffet? A staff member is happy to go to find you one.
Spirit may also be the cleanest ship I have travelled on, and an improved app service meant that most inquiries could be sorted online.
There was plenty to do on sea days, with a large casino for those who like to gamble, an impressive unisex spa, and daily activities from games and puzzles to basketball and yoga by the pool. And there are at least four live musical acts a night scattered around the bars for those who want to make a night of it.
There is also a Comedy Club that doubles as a late-night karaoke venue.
Two pools, a well-appointed gym, jogging track and basketball court ensure those who like their vacations active are well catered for.
Nightly shows take place in the 800-seat Stardust Theatre. Illusionists Javi and Anahi from Spain were the most memorable, and they will be on board throughout Spirit’s upcoming Australasian itinerary, but there was something for everyone, from a diva showcase to old-school Broadway.
This cruise surpassed all my expectations, with good food, a great onboard culture, and service a few cuts above the norm.
It is a perfect ship for this part of the world, offering just the right recipe of luxury and egalitarian charm.
But Spirit saved the best for last – sailing into Sydney and gliding gracefully under the Harbour Bridge (the only NCL ship that is able to fit under the iconic structure) on a beautiful summer’s morning – so stunning I forgot to take photos.