Newport – fast cars, boats and money
We all know that America’s rich and famous flock to ‘The Hamptons’, but Stephen Heard finds they are also fond of ‘the new Hamptons.
The crowd starts moving in the direction of a classic car positioned right by the water. ‘‘Jay Leno is here,’’ someone blurts out. I am at the residence of an American billionaire tobacco heiress, wandering between priceless Cadillacs, Ferraris and Porches, and I couldn’t be in a better position for celebrity spotting.
I could go to catch a glimpse of the television personality, perhaps build up the courage to ask for a selfie with him, but the bar has free cocktails, there is fresh pizza by the slice, clam chowder by the pottle and there are complimentary Lamborghini hats.
The Gathering at Rough Point luxury garden party is a typical scene in Newport, Rhode Island, which you can pay to attend to temporarily live like the 1% who call this place home.
Once used as a summer resort by the world’s wealthiest families, this town in
North America’s smallest state is plugged as the ‘‘new Hamptons’’, luring the megawealthy and celebrities who are looking for a more personal and private lifestyle on some of the country’s most exclusive real estate.
Do they know about The Cliff Walk right out the front of their grand properties? It is one of the top tourism suggestions when entering ‘‘Newport’’ into Google.
Clinging to the rugged Atlantic coastline with views into Narragansett Bay, the 5km walk is one of the most popular ways for visitors to see the famous historic Gilded Age mansions of Rhode Island.
On this wet October day, the conditions are too miserable to wander down the boardwalk or scramble along the rocks, holding on to chainlink, to see how the other half live. But luckily, there are several ways for a snoop.
We pile into a car to tour the privately owned mansions. Turning down scenic Ocean Drive, we pass the historic sites of the Fort Adams defence post and Newport Country Club, the location of the forerunner of the US Open. Further along, beaches are blocked by private clubs where only the elite can be invited to become members to access the sand, saltwater-fed swimming pools and ice cream parlours.
As we roll along a road connecting two peninsulas, our driver Mike points to Leno’s Louis XIV-inspired rubble and slate chateau. The comedian reportedly coughed up US$13.5 million for the 1400m2 mansion.
Elsewhere on the trail is a property owned by the Campbell Soup heiress, another with chimneys designed like Worcestershire Sauce bottles, and the Victorian Hammersmith Farm where Jacqueline Lee Bouvier, the future Jackie Kennedy, grew up.
None of the massive dwellings can compete with The Breakers.
At Ochre Point, the 70-room, four-storey limestone palazzo was once the summer cottage of the wealthy Vanderbilt family, whose history has narrative points like a hit television series: tragedy, scandal, wealth and excess.
HBO show The Gilded Age is said to be based on this family of philanthropists and socialites.
The manicured grounds and mansion are of an imperial scale. We walk through the ornate iron gates emblazoned with the Vanderbilt crest, and then right into the Renaissance-style building.
The grand entrance, inspired by the 16th-century palaces of Genoa and Turin, rises two storeys with an interior built from marble and bronze. Look up and you will see a rococo painted fresco. It feels criminal to traipse through in smudged sneakers.
The house is now designated a National Historic Landmark, and is one of about a dozen mansions open for visitor tourism experiences. You can walk around the grounds of some or, if your wallet allows, rent one for US$10,000-$30,000 (NZ$15,000$47,000) a week.
The house perched on top of a small, rocky island in the middle of Newport Harbour is unique.
Visitors need to organise their own water transport and have at least $10,000 handy to stay at the 23-room Clingstone. Or, like me, you can take a ride on the Coastal Queen, and imagine what it would be like to stay at the architectural marvel designed to withstand hurricane-force winds.
Cruising into the harbour and lower Narragansett Bay, commentary points to the most photographed Rhode Island lighthouse, centuries-old manor houses, the boat house used as inspiration in Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of The Great Gatsby and the modest summer home of singer-songwriter James Taylor.
Newport’s history is tied to the sea. The trading ships are gone and, instead, from the open-air top deck come spectacular views of spark plug lighthouses, multimillion-dollar yachts and tall ships moored bow-to-bow. We drift beneath the Claiborne Pell suspension bridge that connects the even wealthier Jamestown. Money might be everything there, but sailing comes a close second.
Back on dry land in the centre of Newport, 400 years of sailing history can be discovered at The Sailing Museum. The interactive exhibit allows visitors to design their own boat and compete in hands-on activities such as manually winching grinders and flying over the water in an immersive film dome. Just don’t ask why it has been 40 years since the city last hosted the America’s Cup.
After creating the burgee flag for your own sailing club, there are plenty of other ways to pretend that you have money in this city of leisure.
There is no better place to see out a day in Newport than The Vanderbilt hotel, set two blocks back from Newport Harbour. Once owned by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt, the historic downtown mansion is an elegant oldworld space where you can slink into the secret bar or take in the entire harbour and coastline from the rooftop, with a cocktail in hand and a giant pretzel dangling on its own purpose-built metal hanger.
Where to eat in Newport
Newport Restaurant Group’s Bar ’Cino has locations in Brookline and Newport’s historic Washington Square. The casual eatery serves Italian-inspired plates to share, including grilled pizzas, piadina sandwiches and pastas.
Chef Mariana Gonzalez-Trasvina’s taqueria La Vecina operates out of the same building for takeaway-style dining. Visit barcino.com.
The Brenton Hotel
This hotel overlooking the super yachts and harbour is one of the coolest places to sit down for brunch in Newport. Book ahead on weekends to score a cushy booth in The Living Room, and take your pick from avocado toast, pastrami-style smoked salmon or cinnamon oatmeal.
At the other end of the day, head to the rooftop for cocktails and a turn on the mini-putt course. Visit brentonhotel.com.
The Fifth Element
From Buffalo-style wings and loaded poutine to Silician bolognese and pork tacos, there is no shortage of choice at this casual bar and grill.
There is also plenty of space for large groups between the multi-area dining room, bar and open-air beer garden. Visit thefifthri.com.
Newport Vineyards
Ten minutes from the centre of Newport, this winery estate brings a slice of Napa in Rhode Island. Work your way through the lineup of wines produced in the microclimate of Aquidneck Island or hop-forward beers from Taproot Brewing Co.
Casual sharing plates can be enjoyed at the on-site restaurant – inside or right next to the vines. Visit newportvineyards.com.
The writer was hosted by Brand USA.