What does $1000 whisky taste like?
What’s the difference between an expensive rare whisky, and an off-the-shelf? To Craig Hoyle’s not-so-discerning palate, not a lot.
Granted, it tastes like very good whisky - but as we slowly sipped alongside coffee and petit fours, I couldn’t stop thinking about how much it cost.
We sample Glenfiddich’s new Grande Couronne
Rule number one with $1000 scotch whisky: sip very slowly. Rule number two: don’t admit you can’t taste the difference from the regular stuff. Stratospherically-priced tipples would normally be beyond the reach of this writer, but one of the perks of being a journalist is access to uncharted territory, which is how I find myself having lunch at The Northern Club - Auckland’s exclusive ivycovered members-only venue, where the city’s wellheeled and aspiring have gathered since 1869.
Several dozen of us are ushered through to an airy lobby, past several dining rooms dripping with pearls and suits, and I take stock of my fellow guests.
We’re a mix of journalists and personalities - I recognise celebrity model Colin Mathura-Jeffree, fashion influencer Jess Molina and one-time Bachelor contestant Stephanie Lai - and publicists glide through the room making introductions.
But this lunch isn’t about playing who’s who: the real star of the show sits centre stage on a table amidst a purple-and-white floral arrangement with gold candles and candelabras.
Some of the leaves have been spray-painted gold; presumably to match the gold-leaf label on the bottle, the latter of which we take turns gingerly cradling.
The cocktail on arrival is a 12-year-old Glenfiddich with pear wine and lemon verbena.
It tastes like a fruity aperol spritz. It’s not to the liking of one of my fellow attendees, so I drink hers too.
After 20 minutes of mingling we’re ushered to a private lounge where a table is set for 26 people. The colour scheme carries through; fresh purple sweet peas, with more gold-painted greenery.
Bottles of whisky complete the scene as centrepieces. Each sits on what I would call a lazy Susan, although there’s probably a more sophisticated name for them in a setting like this.
My table-place name-card is embossed with a black wax seal, which has been imprinted with the figure of a highland stag. No prizes for guessing the stag’s colour - it’s gold again. Another gold stag adorns the menu.
The canapes do not disappoint: seared lamb loin with babaganoush and slow roast cherry tomato, sticky pork belly with beetroot relish and sesame seeds, and a blue cheese and caramelised onion tart. They’re small bites, but tasty.
Today’s all about the whisky, so there’s not a bottle of wine in sight. Instead, we’re served another whisky cocktail; this one’s a 15-year-old Glenfiddich with tamarillo wine and ginger root.
I forgot to write down what it tasted like.
The main course, when it arrives, is elegantly understated: duck leg confit with pearl barley, wild mushrooms, crispy carrots, sage and pine nut oil. Something light, we’re told, so as not to distract from the main event.
Anticipation builds as the plates are cleared. They’re replaced by crystal glasses so delicate they feel as if they might break if you squeeze too hard. Then, one by one, we’re each poured a dram from those gold-leafed centrepieces.
So what, exactly, are we drinking? ‘‘This is our Grande Couronne,’’ says Phil Spector, who goes on to further describe the 26-year-old single malt from Glenfiddich’s distillery.
Spector’s the New Zealand brand ambassador for William Grant & Sons, the Scottish family business behind the famous Glenfiddich stag.
The Grande Couronne replaces a previous 26-year-old single malt, but comes with a new twist. ‘‘This is utilising for us for the first time at Glenfiddich our rare ex-cognac casks,’’ says Spector. ‘‘We do the majority of our maturation in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, but for this whisky we do what we call a two-year cask finish.
‘‘This means we take whisky that’s already mature, and has a lot of our distillery character and flavour brought into the whisky, but then for a period of up to two years we let that whisky mature even further in cognac casks, giving it that extra level of depth and flavour around the whisky.’’
Glenfiddich malt master Brian Kinsman, based in Scotland, adds that the Grande Couronne is the latest example of the distillery’s ‘‘ability to experiment with aged liquid and intriguing finishes’’.
‘‘It is the only Glenfiddich single malt that has matured in American and European oak casks and finished in rare French cognac casks,’’ Kinsman says.
‘‘The length of the finish, two years, is highly unusual and adds extra layers of sweet, toasted oak and velvety aromas of cafe´ cre`me, brown sugar and soft spice.’’
This is the point where I admit these sophisticated notes were lost on me. When I sample the Grande Couronne it tastes like, well, whisky.
Granted, it tastes like very good whisky - but as we slowly sipped alongside coffee and petit fours, I couldn’t stop thinking about how much it cost.
The price point - Grande Couronne has a recommended retail value of $1050 per bottle means it will probably only be for sale in ‘‘more specialist carriers’’, says Spector. ‘‘Liquorland will be a key partner for stores that have a bit of a whisky specialisation,’’ he says.
‘‘Super Liquor as well, although again it
Phil Spector, NZ brand ambassador for William Grant & Sons, introduces Glenfiddich’s Grande Couronne.
won’t be available nationwide across their outlets, and then whisky specialist stores like Whisky Galore down in Christchurch. Because of the nature of the very limited release, it will be in select stores only, for the time being.’’
Over lunch, we’re told how exclusive this whisky is: just 46 bottles were brought into New Zealand. It wasn’t intended to be quite so rarefied; an order of 46 cases was intended but something got lost in translation.
Spector’s optimistic we’ll eventually see more of the 26-year-old Grande Couronne here in Aotearoa. ‘‘Hopefully, fingers crossed!’’
For now though - if you can afford it - bottoms up.
Grande Couronne tasting notes
Colour: Antique Gold.
Nose: Vibrant and lively with an abundance of toasty oak sweetness. Reminiscent of a French paˆ tisserie, freshly-baked Tarte Tatin and buttery choux pastry.
Taste: Deep, velvety smooth and indulgently sweet. Cafe´ cre` me with soft brown sugar and a hint of spice.
Finish: Very long-lasting sweet oak.