WINTER WARMERS
Michael Lamb finds plenty of reasons to visit Europe in the low season.
Off-peak doesn’t have to mean bleak. If you’ve ever fancied a European trip in winter, fresh experiences await. And, of course, lower prices and fewer visitors clogging up the top attractions. Here are a few thought starters to inspire your itinerary . . .
UNITED KINGDOM
The UK gets a bad rap for its climate, but as doughty Yorkshire writer Alfred Wainwright famously said, ‘‘There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.’’ So snap open your umbrella, climb into your long johns and get into it.
Hike the Yorkshire Dales
Walk the wild moors, including the Bronte¨
Way. This circular walk starts at the Bronte¨ sisters’ Parsonage Museum in Haworth, then heads to the Bronte¨ Waterfall and on up to the ruined farmhouse at Top Withens. Breathtaking winter views over the moors – and you can even stop for a whisky at the Wuthering Heights Inn at Stanbury.
Hogmanay in Edinburgh
One of the biggest and best New Year’s Eve celebrations in the world, with a torchlight procession, live gigs, traditional dancing, fireworks, and an epic street party. It happens over three days, draws over 100,000 people, and culminates in a chilly river dip at South Queensferry on New Year’s Day, preferably in fancy dress.
Warm your cockles in the Cotswolds
Slad may sound sad, but this is the spiritual home of Laurie Lee, who wrote the rosy-hued rural English classic Cider With Rosie. Walk to the equally uncomfortably named Painswick, and be immersed in the bucolic Cotswolds landscapes, hopefully with a light dusting of snow.
ITALY
With its toes dipped firmly in the Med, Italy is now an established year-round destination.
Vacay in Venice
If Venice ever lets out a sigh and has a low season, it’s January, when the festivities of December have gone, the Venice Carnival is still weeks away, and the crowds have dwindled to a straggle. Wake to romantic foggy mornings over the Grand Canal, easily get a table at Caffe´ Florian for a warming hot chocolate and biscotti (this venerable institution has been serving Venetians and their guests since 1720). The high tide – or acqua alta – may bring water on to the streets and squares, though the Piazza San Marco is now happily protected by a hi-tech glass shield. You might even find a room in a posh palazzo at a half-affordable price.
Low-season Sicily
Possibly the hottest destination in Europe right now thanks to a certain TV show, so avoid the lotus eaters of summer and try winter. November and December temperatures of 15C to 20C are not uncommon, which is why the GermanFrench romantic artist Otto Geleng fell for the place back in 1863 and single-handedly launched the trend of Sicily in winter. You can explore his legacy in Taormina, or if you’re determined to pick up a thread from that certain TV show, check out the Caltagirone ceramics – those Moorish heads that loom ominously throughout the show. Up in the hills of Catania at Caltagirone itself, you can even do a workshop to make your own souvenirs. The festivals continue unabated, like the Festa di Sant’Agata in Catania, two days of exuberance and chaos – and the best time to visit Catania’s famous outdoor market.
SWEDEN
For the Swedes – and the Finns – chilly temperatures are part of their DNA. So why not go all in on a snowy adventure in the Nordic north? Åsa Lind Chong is a former New Zealand resident who now runs adventures into the Swedish wilderness, including family-friendly options (check her website at escapadesweden.se). Think husky dogsledding, skiing, foraging, and staying with the indigenous Sa´ mi people, or simply trekking in the light of the midnight sun.
GREECE
The Greek Islands are entirely visitable in winter, though many of the hotels shut down, and the smaller islands will mostly be only the locals going about their business. But there is one island where you can get a sniff of summer in winter . . .
Seek the heat in Crete
Greece’s southernmost island offers some of the warmest winter weather in Europe. OK, it may be a touch too cold to swim from December, but you can wander the ancient Cretan trails and hiking paths – such as the famous Samaria´ Gorge – without suffering the blistering highseason
temperatures. And enjoy the company of locals in the mountain villages over a soothing raki, the local spirit. Plus, many museums and popular historical sites like Knossos and Elafonisi stay open year-round, there’s scenic snow on the mountains, and the first signs of spring appear in January!
PORTUGAL
If you’ve ever been to Lisbon in summer, you’ll know it’s a tad crowded, but follow the sun south for other Portuguese treats.
Fun in Faro
Apparently, global warming is shortening the winter season across Europe – and Faro, the capital of the Algarve region, is another destination to consider for that never-ending summer vibe. The off-season still offers mild temperatures, plenty of sunny days and, statistically, just one rainy day a month. Explore the historic centre of Faro, then head inland to the Moorish town of Loule´ , with its traditional market. Or take a car – or even a cycling holiday – around the golden Algarve coast, where you’ll find beautiful, deserted beaches and a sprinkling of pretty towns still welcoming visitors, like Lagos, Portima˜ o and Albufeira.