SCREEN TIME
From cheesy slogans and visual puns, custom-printed tops can portray what words alone cannot. Speaking to a rookie and seasoned screener, Mairātea Mohi investigates the secret to screen printing success.
Some of our most memorable occasions were probably enjoyed in a printed tee. Family reunions, overseas school holidays or even the Saturday morning sport uniform. The screen printed T-shirt is found in almost every closet. Celebrated for its multipurpose functions – PJ top, pump cover or as a laundry day necessity – printed tees have always played a part in all walks of life.
The competition to become a wardrobe staple is fierce. Many are vying for a spot in your dresser and an evergrowing community of apparel printers, designers and merchandisers are fighting for their share of the pie.
Screen printing is often seen as a straightforward, well-earning business venture by aspiring entrepreneurs. The appeal of screen printing ranges from its accessibility to people of any educational or financial standing to its creative pursuits. There seems to be a market and niche for every fan club, activity group or social faction, with a place for many to earn revenue. A field ripe with opportunity, the screen printing scene is also bursting with competition and talent.
A recent wave of young Māori and Pasifika screen printers and designers is steering a new direction of streetwear. Unsure if it is the country’s obsession with DIY or the impending recession, but the hopefuls have curated a taste for the eclectic and authentic.
References to the unique upbringing of Oceania are imprinted on an Asos basic tee for all to see. Raro cordial packets, grand depictions of atua Māori and even decolonisation sentiments plaster torsos in the country’s screen printing hub, Tāmaki Makaurau.
The fight to relevancy in fashion and apparel is aggressive and combative. Knowing that anyone can buy blanks and print on their own, why do merchandisers choose to keep going?
“[Because] seeing people wear your stuff out in public is so incredibly humbling,” confides Frazer Strickland, founder of The Layers Platform.
A multimedia locale, The Layers Platform hosts apparel, a blog and an occasional podcast. Created two years ago by Strickland, he uses the platform to collaborate with talent across Auckland and Aotearoa. Strickland’s first gig was with local friend and artist Fable, creating and selling shirts at his headlining performance. Strickland was allowed to keep all of the earnings and this first pay cheque went on to fund The Layers Platform.
Understanding the power of connected communities and an opportunity, Strickland often takes a chance on emerging artists to empower his local districts. Growing up in Auckland’s Mt Roskill, Strickland is now finding his feet in Māngere where he works mainly as a social worker to help young adults establish themselves independently.
The Layers Platform is a cherished side hustle maintained only by the help of family, friends and community. While Strickland, in his two years, has achieved so much on his own, he still has many more questions about business and entrepreneurship.
Upon finishing his interview and among the small talk, a serendipitous occasion to introduce mentor to mentee presented itself: convincing Strickland to join and assist on an interview with seasoned screen printer, Chris Ma’ia’i at Positive Screenprinting. Responding to Strickland’s flurry of questions, Ma’ia’i replied: “I’m always still learning, but I’ll help where I can.”
Initially working at a firm creating bootleg merch, Ma’ia’i went on to start Positive Screenprinting almost eight years ago. The company has produced commissions for the boutique Moana Fresh and the Efeso Collins’ Auckland mayoral campaign, and is a favourite among university student associations.
His business model is communityminded and culturally informed, and he credits his aiga and the local Avondale community for keeping the business afloat.
He is open about the hardship that many smaller businesses can feel by the competition of established brands who can produce at exacerbated speeds and quantities; also acknowledging the burnout felt by many independent screen printers.
“At times it can feel like the grind and sometimes I’m sick of it. But I’ll never give up,” he says, of the long hours and often little return.
Ultimately, he values screen printing for the opportunity to be his own boss, which allows him to contribute back to those supporting his journey.
In the almost two hours of grilling, the two entrepreneurs came up with a few tips for not only the aspiring, but the established too.
BE PREPARED TO MAKE SOME DUDS
No-one gets it right the first time. Sometimes it takes multiple prints to perfect a top, “or sometimes people just aren’t into your ideas”, Strickland explains.
The biggest lesson both entrepreneurs preach is the ability to persevere. “Fashion and streetwear in particular move so fast. Don’t take things too seriously, especially when things don’t go well,” says Strickland.
FIND YOUR NICHE
Your point of difference is your design and story. What are the values of your brand? What do you hope to achieve? These factors all come into play when figuring out your niche.
Everyone in New Zealand uses the same two brands of T-shirt manufacturers, so how will you stand out? Start by identifying your interest and a market needing your business.
COMMUNITY MATTERS
“A lot of the business is still funeral tees,” Ma’ia’i admits. “Most of our business is community-focused.” Think game tops, family memorials and community groups.
Ma’ia’i says it’s important to focus on gaining quality clients who appreciate the work you do. “I often work with people who seek us out, so I try to go the extra mile to ensure customers come back.”
However, commitment doesn’t always have to look financial. As Strickland states: “a follow on Instagram means just as much as a purchase.”