SAINTS SINNERS

At this time of year, we need to pay tribute to the food legends with some cheeky sweets, writes Sunday’s resident chef Sam Mannering.

The Christmas article. Already? Eep. I always think long and hard about this one, and I keep reaching the same conclusion. It’s not about reinventing things. Or exciting new takes. I won’t let my ego get in the way of those familiar classics. Christmas, for me anyway, should be about comforting feelings of familiarity. Last year for some reason we didn’t do turkey. And it irked me all year. So I won’t be doing anything unorthodox on Christmas Day, and I suggest you do the same.

So what do I have here instead? Baubles. Treats. The little bite-ettes that come between meals. This is where you can push the boat out a little. I chose them not only because of their merits as festive gap-fillers, but also since they go a long way as cute wee gifts. I used to prance after primary school prizegiving distributing little bags of such things to favoured teachers. Something scrumptious and handmade in my opinion is infinitely more special as a gift, not to mention much cheaper. Merry Christmas.

DARK CHOCOLATE AND RUM TRUFFLES

I have Saint Delia (Smith) to thank for these. We grew up making them. You may want to dunk them in melted white chocolate and then roll in sliced almonds. Very fancy. Just make sure you chill or freeze them first before doing so, to avoid the risk of a melty disaster. Like anything ganache-y, they don’t last very long out of the fridge. Not that they would anyway. These freeze very well, by the way.

PREP TIME: 45 MINUTES COOK TIME: 50 MINUTES MAKES: ABOUT 40-50 TRUFFLES

250g block of good dark chocolate (I used Whittakers)

250 ml double cream (UHT works well too) 1 tbsp butter

2 tbsp rum

2-3 tbsp good cocoa powder

1. Finely chop the chocolate and transfer to a mixing bowl.

2. Combine the cream and butter in a small saucepan and heat until it is almost simmering, but don’t let it boil over.

3. Take off the heat and pour immediately over the chocolate, stirring the two together until you have a smooth, glossy mixture. Stir in the rum.

4. Grease and line a shallow dish and pour in the chocolate mixture. Cover and chill overnight until set firm.

5. Spread the cocoa powder out on a plate. Cut the chocolate into wee squares or take teaspoons of the mix, roll into balls and dust in the cocoa. It helps to have your hands well dusted with cocoa powder too.

6. Arrange in a single layer on a tray or plate, cover and pop back into the fridge to firm up. These are best stored in the fridge or freezer.

RUSSIAN FUDGE

Stirring at the hot stove for 15 minutes or so may seem a little tedious (and be careful, you don’t want it or yourself to get burned), but you will be well-rewarded. This is categorically the best fudge recipe I have ever come across. I’m not being facetious or cute here; it’s deadly. Make a tray, limit yourself to two pieces and give the rest away immediately because if you don’t, you’ll eat it all yourself. You have been warned.

PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES COOK TIME: 15-20 MINUTES MAKES: ONE TRAY

• 4 cups white sugar

• 2 tbsp golden syrup

• 1 tin condensed milk (395g)

• 200g butter

• ¾ cup milk

• 1 tsp of decent vanilla essence

1. Combine all ingredients, except for the vanilla, in a saucepan over a mediumlow-ish heat, stirring constantly.

2. Once the sugar has dissolved, continue to heat until it is boiling gently. Continue to stir as it boils, for about 15 minutes (and a maximum of 20 minutes), by which time it should be a golden brown colour.

3. At this point, test the setting point (soft ball stage) by dropping a wee bit into a bowl of cold water; if it sets but is still a bit squidgy-soft, then it is done. If not, continue to boil for a little longer, stirring, before testing again.

4. Once it is at the soft ball stage, remove from the heat and transfer to a mixing bowl. Get an electric beater (infinitely easier, although a whisk or a wooden spoon will suffice at a pinch), mix in the vanilla, and beat for about five minutes until it is lovely and thick, rather like Nutella.

5. Transfer to a lined tin or dish and refrigerate until set, before cutting into squares.