Sunday Star-Times

More than COUNTRY

Nashville has rightfully earned its nickname Music City, but don’t let that moniker fool you into thinking music is its only drawcard, writes Ashlyn Oswalt.

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The allure of Nashville’s glitz and glamour is hard to deny. From yesteryear’s neon lights and rhinestone suits to today’s star-studded honky tonks, Nashville’s history is rooted in country music. Its present, however, is a whole lot more. From renowned food and drink to neighbourh­oods that beg you to stay and wander, Music City has plenty to offer.

Food, high and low

Whether you’re daring enough to try Nashville’s hot chicken (it’s hot) or prefer white tablecloth­s and attentive waitstaff, Nashville has it all. The food scene here has exploded over the years, attracting popular chefs and hungry diners.

Take Sean Brock, awardwinni­ng chef and featured on

Chef’s Table, who’s opened four restaurant­s in the city

– Joyland, The Continenta­l,

Audrey and June. Or try the celebrated Henrietta Red for its oysters or Rolf and

Daughters for seasonal, pastaforwa­rd dishes and cocktails in contempora­ry, upscale settings, both located in Germantown.

For food that’s the backbone of Nashville, look no further than Nashville hot chicken.

Prince’s Hot Chicken is the original, but you can sample others around the city. Don’t skimp on the bread and pickles.

It truly wouldn’t be a trip to Music City without some Southern cooking, and you can bet your bottom dollar there’s plenty around these parts. Take a drive to The Loveless

Cafe, a beloved motelturne­d-restaurant that serves a heaping plate of compliment­ary biscuits with every order. You won’t want to miss the pulled pork, collard greens and sweet tea.

Drinks with atmosphere

Dive bars abound in Nashville. For a beloved institutio­n, head to Dino’s Bar & Grill in East Nashville – the neighbourh­ood’s oldest dive bar. With cheap US$6 shots (NZ$9) and the option to add Velveeta cheese to its classic burgers, it’s the kind of place you want to dig your heels into.

For the truly odd, visit Santa’s Pub, a double-wide trailer that’s decked out in – you guessed it – Christmas decor. With its cheap beer and karaoke, we reckon you’ll settle in for a few rounds.

For craft cocktails, sidle up to the bar at Attaboy. You’ll need to knock and wait patiently outside for a seat, but once in, the bartenders will ask you a few questions and whip you up a drink that perfectly suits your tastes.

In Printers Alley, duck into Skull’s Rainbow Room for classic cocktails in a speakeasy-vibe, complete with burlesque shows and live jazz.

Funky neighbourh­oods

If you’re after an off-the-beaten track vibe that gets you far away from the hen’s-party scene of Lower Broadway, look no further than East Nashville. A funky haven of vintage stores, coffee shops, cocktail bars and historic homes dots the neighbourh­ood, giving eclectic vibes.

Stop into Black Shag Vintage and Anaconda Vintage for curated pieces and then, be sure to stop at Grimey’s New & Preloved Music for some deals on records (and maybe sneak in a live show!).

Contempora­ry pleasures

Whether you’re shopping for a handmade pair of cowboy boots or prefer well-known brands like Madewell and Outdoor Voices, 12 South is for you. A gorgeous neighbourh­ood full of delightful bungalows and a walkable street full of restaurant­s and shops, you’ll find a sophistica­ted piece of Nashville’s heart here.

After you grab a coffee from Frothy Monkey, head to Imogene + Willie for its premium denim sold out of an old service station.

Stop by White’s Mercantile, a modern general store that stocks home decor, cocktail mixes, apparel and more, and then pop into Planet Cowboy for handmade cowboy boots, hats and buckles.

Finally, peek your head into Savant Vintage, a curated mix of high quality and one-of-a-kind vintage apparel.

Music to everyone’s ears

The beauty of Music City is that it’s home to world-class stages, like the famous Ryman Auditorium, that attract every genre under the sun. Whether you’re a music enthusiast or simply appreciate the occasional live band, Nashville’s restaurant­s, bars and streets are teeming with tunes.

For an authentic Nashville experience – which will likely include country music – head to The Bluebird Cafe, the iconic, unassuming venue favoured by songwriter­s and where Taylor Swift was discovered.

If you’d prefer less country, plenty of venues host a wide range of genres, with Station Inn and 3rd and Lindsley being great spots. A trip to Third Man Records, Jack White’s live-to-acetate recording studio, is also a must-visit, with tours and plenty of oddities to keep you entertaine­d.

PHOTOGRAPH­S TOP TO BOTTOM

Lower Broadway and the heart of downtown Nashville. Ryman Auditorium is a historic venue in Nashville. The Bluebird Cafe. You can’t miss Nashville hot chicken.

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