Explore NZ without the tourists
Welcome to level 2. We can finally explore our own backyard in peace and quiet. Brook Sabin picks his ideal spots.
It was January 2020 BC (Before Covid) and foreign tourists swarmed our shores, crowding our most popular tourist attractions. And Kiwis loved to complain about it, myself included.
Now, in May 2020 AD (After Disease) I almost feel guilty that while the rest of the world struggles with mass casualties, we’re dusting off our airports preparing for the prospect of leisure travel – which is now permitted.
It looked like the L word (leisure) could be cancelled this year, but we’re on the cusp of getting it back – and we all have to hope it’s not temporary.
The exciting prospect is we now have a once-ina-lifetime chance to see Aoteroa without crowds from another land. Foreign tourism will, of course, return – and we’ll all talk about the time when for a year or so we had the country to ourselves. I hope we use the time wisely.
If you haven’t seen the country’s top attractions, now might just be the time to pencil a visit. Welcome to level 2, New Zealand.
Cathedral Cove
The jagged white cliffs that line the Coromandel coast tell a fascinating story: they’re made from pumice and ash that erupted eight million years ago. The rock is relatively soft, so over the years little golden coves have formed all along the coast; the most famous being the iconic archway that is Cathedral Cove.
Ordinarily, from dawn to dusk, the cove is packed with tourists – now you’re likely to be one of only a handful there.
Milford Sound
Our biggest tourism drawcard sits empty: one million people were expected to venture out to see Milford Sound this year – but no longer.
There’s no shying away from the fact some weren’t a fan of the crowds that constantly packed our self-described ‘‘Eighth Wonder of the World’’. Now, Milford promises to be a much quieter place, where nature will take centre stage.
The five-hour drive from Queenstown is one of the best in the country, and especially good given it won’t be packed with cars and busses.
Mackenzie Country
I’ve always thought if I could travel back in time and visit a part of New Zealand before mass tourism became an issue, it would be the Mackenzie Region. It’s the snowy heart of the Southern Alps – home to our tallest mountains and bright blue glacial lakes, like Tekapo and Pu¯ kaki.
But in recent years it became overrun with tourists. In 2020 alone, more than a million were expected to set eyes on Lake Tekapo. But the hordes of tourists are no more; you’d have to rewind more than 50 years to see anything similar.
Hot Water Beach
The last time I went to the Coromandel’s Hot Water Beach, dozens of people were all concentrated on a little spot on the beach, where the hot water bubbles up. The sand was flying everywhere; some were digging halfway to Mexico to find their hot bounty. I walked away; it was far too chaotic to enjoy.
With foreign tourists making up a significant portion of those digging for a free beach spa, Kiwis can head there and swap a bit of calm for the usual chaos.
Stewart Island
Stewart Island is heavily reliant on foreign visitors, making up about 50 per cent of guests. The island is home to a vast national park, with walks through dense primaeval forests, and it’s also the best place in the country to try to spot a wild kiwi – the island has an estimated 20,000.
Franz Josef and Fox glaciers
New Zealand is blessed with two of the easiest to reach in the world. Walking to Franz Josef glacier involves an easy 45-minute trek through a rainforest, emerging to find a lunar-like valley with towering waterfalls and peaks that disappear into the clouds. At the end of the walkway, you’ll marvel at a hulking 12-kilometre glacier that disappears into the mountains.
The walk attracts tourists from all over the world, but it seems Kiwis don’t quite share the enthusiasm. A survey by the Department of Conservation over 2018-19 found just 14 per cent of walkers to the glacier were domestic tourists. A whopping 86 per cent were foreign nationals.
Abel Tasman
The last time I walked Abel Tasman, I was struck by the crowds. While undeniably one of the best walks in the country, the ambience was tarnished by the constant stream of people. If you venture out for this multi-day hike in the coming months – while it will be chilly – expect to find it almost deserted.
Waiheke wine
The crowds at Waiheke were never too off-putting, even when hundreds of cruise ship passengers were on the island.
However, the island is now likely to adopt a quieter pace – and restaurant bookings will be much easier to come by. There are also plenty of wine tours, even one where you can combine ziplining. And yes, you’ll do the zipping before the sipping.