Vintage year for champers

At his annual tasting, John Saker pops his cork for fizz from 2012, which was a great year in Champagne.

On a recent trip to Paris, I fetched up at a fine little hotel on the Left Bank called Hotel des Bulles (‘Bubbles Hotel’). A champagne theme runs throughout the establishment – even the stools in the bedrooms are shaped like champagne corks.

I was lodged in the Bollinger Room. A portent, I wondered, thinking ahead to my annual champers tasting?

Not quite, but almost. A pair of Bollys (both the Rosé NV and the Special Cuvée NV) finished in this year’s top 10, both looking very accomplished.

Helping me judge at the champagne tasting were a pair of Wellington’s top sommeliers, Maciej Zimny (Noble Rot) and Kate Hutchison (Capitol). We blind-tasted 37 champagnes in all, 11 of which were rosés. There were five vintage wines entered; the rest were non-vintage. Prices ranged from $140 per bottle to $39.95.

Our top 10 is stylistically diverse, with something for everybody.

Top honours went to a champagne from a house that has been doing outstanding work over recent years. The Taittinger Vintage 2012 just looked fabulous. Every judge got behind it in the first round; it was a unanimous number one call when it came to the final ranking. It is fresh, complex, ebullient and has that classic ironed linen scent that is a hallmark of great champagne.

Weighing in many dollars lighter was our #2, the Paul Bara NV which is one of the grower champagnes (small independent producers) Glengarry brings in. This wine has an outsized personality – it’s flinty, citrusy, bold, crisp and brimming with energy. A great oyster champagne.

Four rosé champagnes made the top 10. The two best of them (our third and fourth placegetters) were both from the 2012 vintage, which was outstanding in Champagne.

I’d also pick out the Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label as looking very good this year. For something a little off-piste, try the Marion Bosser Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV Premier Cru NV (#9). This is an elegant, charming 100% chardonnay style which offers excellent value (go to threefrenchvines.com).

THE TOP 10 Taittinger Vintage 2012 Paul Bara Brut Réserve NV

1.

2.

3. 4. 5.

6.

7.

8.

9. 10. Glengarry) $125 (widely available) (widely available) (widely available) $125 (fine wine stores) $65 (exclusively

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2008 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé 2008 Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV Bollinger Rosé NV GH Mumm Le Rosé Bollinger Special Cuvee NV

$115 $60

$139 (widely available) $67 (widely available) $116 (widely available)

Marion Bosser Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV Premier Cru $60 (go to threefrenchvines.com) Piper Heidsieck Cuvée Brut $60

(widely available)