THE RICHEST MIX
Samantha Murray Greenway explores the growing trend for future heirloom jewellery, from high luxury brands to bespoke offerings from local makers.
Fine jewellery sales are on the up. According to McKinsey’s report, The State of Fashion 2022, “The branded fine jewellery segment is expected to grow by between 8 and 12% between 2019 and 2025.” Might our escalating fascination with gemstones and the ultimate luxury of high jewellery be influenced by fashion’s increasing appreciation of individuality and growing respect for personal taste?
Van Cleef & Arpels is a high jewellery house known for its innovative artistry (items such as the Zip, the technical whizz of a gem-set necklace first made in 1950, that actually zips up) and storied clientele. Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of the French firm, references last year’s Moroccan find of 150,000-year-old snail shell beads, pierced to be worn on a necklace: “It shows that it doesn’t necessarily have to do with precious materials,” says Bos. “The idea of adornment – of talismans, protection, the personal, cultural or religious significance of something that you would always wear on you, with you, in a permanent manner – has existed almost forever.” The allure of items worth treasuring might go some way to explaining the queues I’ve spotted outside their store on Auckland’s ueen St. But over the years, fashion has played its part, too. “There were periods where everyone wanted yellow gold, then white gold and then it was coloured stones and then all diamonds,” says Bos. And now? “It’s much more an individual choice… Not necessarily following global trends or making sure that you comply with social codes,” he says. “We see clients looking for jewellery that matches or reflects their own personality.” Jessica McCormack, the Christchurch-born, London-based jeweller agrees. She designs jewellery that can be bought individually, to be worn as part of your own collection, making the idea of a set or suite of jewellery seem as outdated as matching your shoes to your handbag. “It’s jewellery that you can layer with what you have already, that you can switch in and out with ease, and that becomes part of you,” says McCormack. “A great necklace or the perfect pair of diamond earrings do become… pieces you’re known for, that your friends start to recognise as being your thing. I love that.”
Interesting to note that now, as with everything style-orientated, the high/low blend is at the fore. McCormack took her new Oval collection to Paris to show during fashion’s couture week. “There were people in extravagant full looks, but there were also a lot of jeans, a lot of sneakers. And our Oval collection felt right at home because of that. It’s a collection with big stones, it’s diamond heavy – but it’s really wearable and can take you from day to night. That feels modern to me.”. Probably the ultimate expression of personalised luxury is bespoke jewellery. It’s the forte of most fine jewellers and the way Auckland-based Naveya & Sloane started. They’ve witnessed a resurgence: “We’re seeing more and more interest in our bespoke pieces,” says Rachel Sloane. Probably because they are: “All about freedom of expression and a total creative collaboration between us and the client.” Christine Power, head of fine jewels at auction house Webb’s, has noticed a similar theme in jewellery sales. Customers, “Are becoming more savvy on price, but people are also liking to repurpose things,” says Power. “They might buy an item for the coloured stone, or diamond content.”
Whether it’s vintage finds, bespoke jewels, updated gems or treasured shells, future heirlooms bought today are all about the rich and individual mix.