The Insider's Guide to New Zealand
Waipu Caves
Deep beneath the farmland and native bush to the west of SH1, there's a spooky, craggly, glittering network of karst limestone caves. The Waipu Caves are the largest cave system in Northland, and remain virtually untouched – there are no guides, no lights, no walkways or signage inside. The opening is impressively cavernous in itself, but adventurers with the right equipment will find a whole world tucked beyond the light. Follow the water, duck beneath low rock and dodge stalagmites and stalactites, then turn off all of the lights and wait. Once eyes adjust to the dark, there's a galaxy of glowworm constellations decorating the pitch black above.
To make the most of the caves, it's important to be prepared. There are knee-deep (if not higher) stretches of icy water to wade through, so waterproof clothing is essential. It's also extremely muddy and slippery so wear appropriate waterproof footwear. While phones have decent built-in torches, no one wants to be clambering over rocks with their phone in their hand. Bring a hefty torch with backup batteries, or a headlamp. There is a 2km signposted walk to the left of the caves, which runs through native bush, around limestone formations and up to a grassy lookout. This walk does not lead to any caves – the cave entrance is located just beyond the car park. The walk is somewhat steep in parts but is a nice alternative for above-ground explorers.
The caves are well signposted from SH1 but the road is partially gravel so drive with care. There is parking on site but it is a grassy paddock. Heavy rain will make the parking boggy, but will also affect the waterflow in the caves, so if the weather has been particularly wet, it may be best to reschedule. Look to the sky before heading in
– if dark clouds are looming, maybe head to
Waipu for lunch instead. Waipu Caves Road, off Shoemaker Road, Waipu.