The Insider's Guide to New Zealand

Waipu Caves

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Deep beneath the farmland and native bush to the west of SH1, there's a spooky, craggly, glittering network of karst limestone caves. The Waipu Caves are the largest cave system in Northland, and remain virtually untouched – there are no guides, no lights, no walkways or signage inside. The opening is impressive­ly cavernous in itself, but adventurer­s with the right equipment will find a whole world tucked beyond the light. Follow the water, duck beneath low rock and dodge stalagmite­s and stalactite­s, then turn off all of the lights and wait. Once eyes adjust to the dark, there's a galaxy of glowworm constellat­ions decorating the pitch black above.

To make the most of the caves, it's important to be prepared. There are knee-deep (if not higher) stretches of icy water to wade through, so waterproof clothing is essential. It's also extremely muddy and slippery so wear appropriat­e waterproof footwear. While phones have decent built-in torches, no one wants to be clambering over rocks with their phone in their hand. Bring a hefty torch with backup batteries, or a headlamp. There is a 2km signposted walk to the left of the caves, which runs through native bush, around limestone formations and up to a grassy lookout. This walk does not lead to any caves – the cave entrance is located just beyond the car park. The walk is somewhat steep in parts but is a nice alternativ­e for above-ground explorers.

The caves are well signposted from SH1 but the road is partially gravel so drive with care. There is parking on site but it is a grassy paddock. Heavy rain will make the parking boggy, but will also affect the waterflow in the caves, so if the weather has been particular­ly wet, it may be best to reschedule. Look to the sky before heading in

– if dark clouds are looming, maybe head to

Waipu for lunch instead. Waipu Caves Road, off Shoemaker Road, Waipu.

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