Holidays in Okiwi Bay the reel deal
Okiwi Bay provides the ideal spot to drop a line close to Nelson. pays a visit.
Schools must be doing a reasonable job of conservation education considering our kids’ ability to sing:
Kai Moana, food from the sea Kai Moana, to feed the family Fish for the future and there will always be more
Kai Moana for you and me
And what better place to put that message into practice than at Okiwi Bay? It makes for a perfect holiday weekend, just over an hour’s drive from Nelson on a sealed road off to the left from SH6 at Rai Valley, en-route to French Pass.
Okiwi sits within Croisilles Harbour (Whangarae), on the western side of the Marlborough Sounds, and was named after the French Abbot of Croisilles.
Many of New Zealand’s early explorers dropped in, and it was well-used by whalers and sealers, then European settlers.
Like the French Abbot, I too first discovered Okiwi by boat.
Although slow to get to in our 31ft keeler – about five hours – there are plenty of anchorages and lots to do when you arrive. Unfortunately, for the captain of our boat, his crew get seasick, so we often divide the team.
The crew drive to Okiwi, park on the waterfront and get picked up from the beach.
Then when we’ve had enough pottering around in the sheltered harbour, we get dropped back ashore and drive home.
This marvellous scheme means I get to experience boating, fishing and a weekend away without worrying about sea conditions.
Okiwi Bay is a place to enjoy the sea’s bounty with excellent fishing, shellfish and diving. I plead that if you are on the sea, play nicely and follow the rules – too many boats (motor ones, I hasten to add) seem to completely overlook the five-knot rule.
You know the one: no more than 5 knots – a fast walking speed – within 200m of the shore or a boat displaying a diver’s flag, or within 50m of any boat or anyone swimming.
And regardless of your speed, maritime rules mean you must not create a wake that causes unnecessary danger to other boats or people. Our captain is quite (and not quietly) particular about this.
Oysters are a feature of the bay and are a successful export industry – nationally worth $18 million in 2016. The Cawthron Institute is the main provider of hatchery spat (young oysters).
Serean Adams, Aquaculture Group Manager, says that they actively breed the best of the best. Scientists at Cawthron, together with industry partners, have selected Pacific oysters that are resilient to the ostreid herpes virus.
Six years ago, this virus had a devastating impact on the country’s Pacific oyster stocks. However, since Cawthron applied a scientific approach to breeding, the industry has bounced back.
Croisilles Rd carries on for 33km past Okiwi Bay to French Pass. This passage proved difficult for another Frenchman, Dumont d’Urville who, in 1827, spent several days investigating before venturing through and clipping the reef twice.
He described the sea as a ‘‘seething sheet’’ where great caution needed to be taken. Our captain has been told that his crew will not accompany him if he decides to head north of Croisilles for new cruising grounds.
If you want a land-based weekend away, where you get to sample seafood caught by someone else, head for the Havelock Mussel and Seafood Festival on Saturday March 18.
Then stay the night at Okiwi – find a rental bach, or stay at Okiwi Bay Holiday Park. Last year’s festival at Havelock was described by The New York Times as one of ‘‘the’’ culinary events to attend. The reviewer compared it favourably to the Belgian Beer Festival, and Italian truffle festivals.
elizabeth@greenaway.co.nz