Michelin Man
American chef Brad Farmarie, who gained a Michelin star for his former NYC restaurant Public, is rekindling his Kiwi connection with the local opening of two international bars in the downtown Auckland Commercial Bay precinct next spring.
Brad, who spent 10 years working under Peter Gordon in London, is overseeing the food for cocktail bar Genuine Liquorette (also in London ). He’s also got some very haute nacho plans for
Ghost Donkey, a New York Mexican-influenced tequila and mezcal bar.
The two venues, to be opened by American design and hospitality firm Avroko, will join their Saxon + Parole restaurant (already in NYC and Moscow), which is also set to open in Commercial Bay.
The association to NZ goes back quite a way. Where and when did it begin?
“I was fortunate enough to meet Peter and start working at the Sugar Club not long after moving to London in the mid-90s. I had just started cooking and my time there influenced me a great deal, from the ingredients that I use to my outlook on food, wine, and hospitality. Probably about half of the staff were Kiwis so I also got an indoctrination into some Kiwi culture and also many opportunities to travel to New Zealand.
The name says it all really, but it sounds like the Nachos Especiales at Ghost Donkey promise to be more than corn chips, a few jalapenos and melted cheese …
Indeed! I think when many people think of Mexican cuisine, they have a distinct idea of what to expect, despite the diversity and regionality of Mexican cooking. When building the Ghost Donkey menu, I built on the predictable nacho stereotype and evolved it using amazing Mexican ingredients and adding my spin to them. The flavours are Mexican, but I am not trying to be traditional – just fun, funky, fresh and delicious.
Will we be treated to the truffle nachos and the wild mushroom version that feature on
the NY menu?
With all of the dishes that I am doing in New Zealand, I am trying to stay true to the original flavours and ideas that make Ghost Donkey such a great place to eat and drink. That said, we are also openminded about letting the spot in Auckland take on its own personality to celebrate all of the great regional produce.
Huitlacoche features in Ghost Donkey’s mushroom margarita. That sounds like a funky drink. Is it popular with bar goers?
Many people think that the mushroom margarita using huitlacoche [a puffy fungus that grows on corn] is on the menu for some shock value, but all of the flavors make it a pretty magical drink, and one that people come back for again and again. It’s a great mix of smoky, earthy, savoury flavours mixing with citrus and spice.
Has the interest in clean living changed much about what is on offer on the menus you oversee?
Yes. I count myself lucky that Peter Gordon was so appreciative of vegetarian and vegan food. He really showed the creativity that could be put into this cooking style to smash the stereotype of tofu, lentils and sad salads as the only offerings. I took his principles on board when we opened Public. We always had three-four vegan and vegetarian dishes on the menu, and I featured vegan and vegetarian tasting menus.