The New Zealand Herald

CHENGDU: PANDAS, CUISINE AND MUCH MORE

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One of China’s most inviting, charming cities, Chengdu moves a little slower than most – much like its most famous inhabitant­s. The lovable giant pandas are just one of its many popular attraction­s: stunning natural scenery, centuries-old history and mouthwater­ing Sichuan cuisine are just some of the reasons this metropolis has become a cultural and culinary magnet for visitors.

WHERE ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?

Chengdu is a popular Western China city, the provincial capital of Sichuan. With a population of over 14 million, it’s China’s fifth largest metropolis, and an important economic and tech hub.

WHY GO THERE?

Chengdu is a place of contrasts. It’s big, brash and exciting and there’s no lack of things to do. Yet is retains a remarkably relaxed vibe, where taking tea and sitting in nature is as important as its World Heritage sites and rare animals. It’s also considered one of the hospitable cities in China.

WHAT’S THERE TO SEE AND DO?

It’s true; first-timers shouldn’t miss a visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding. Board a Panda Express bus early to avoid crowds and get a closer view of these endangered furballs. While the pandas can be visited year-round, they’re most active in summer. Don’t forget your black-and-white souvenirs. Panda slippers anyone? Speaking of pandas, did you know inspiratio­n for the historical streets in the Kung Fu Panda movie was Chengdu’s Wide and Narrow Alleys? These two ancient streets have been restored in the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) architectu­ral styles, with areas of entertainm­ent, local cuisine and plenty of traditiona­l teahouses in which to rub shoulders with locals. Along with Daci Temple and Wenshu Monastery, they make up the “Three Famous Historical Relics of Chengdu” and are a must-see to get a real sense of the past and present of this city. Chengdu really does have history and culture at every turn. To appreciate it, it’s worth understand­ing how it all started. Once the capital of the Shu kingdom, Chengdu dates from the 4th century BC. At the Jinsha Site Museum you can get a glimpse into the dynasty’s workings and marvel at ancient ruins and treasures at this archeologi­cal dig. For more modern landmarks, take an old-style boat tour along the Jinjiang River. Sailings run day or night, taking in sites like the 339m West Pearl Tower, the bright lights of entertainm­ent hotspot Lan Kwai Fong and the winged rooftops of Hejiang Pavilion. If you feel the pull of nature, head out of town to some of the most beautiful national parks in the country, like Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, with waterfalls, snow-capped peaks and hot springs. In autumn and spring the kaleidosco­pe of russet and gold foliage will have you swooning; the delicate paulownia flowers put on a fairyland display of frothy pink and white during April and May.

WHAT’S THE FOOD LIKE?

In a word: amazing. Named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2011, Chendgu’s Sichuan culinary fame is world-renowned. Known for its bold, spicy flavours, Sichuan cuisine is based on lashings of garlic, chilli peppers and regionally grown peppercorn­s. If you don’t like your food hot enough to numb your mouth – and yes, these peppercorn­s can do that – it’s best to ask for dishes without any spice (bula) or with only a little spice (weila). There are plenty of non-spicy dishes, though, like twice-cooked pork and Leshan sweet-skin duck, considered more delicious than Beijing’s roast duck. Don’t miss out on a hotpot - it’s a Chengdu favourite, and works well with local beers like Snow, Blue Sword and Kingway.

WHAT’S THE WEATHER LIKE?

Summer is sultry; winter can be cold and humid with occasional snow. January is the coldest month, while July and August are the hottest, reaching 30˚C, and a great time to escape to the UNESCO World Heritage sites at Mt Qingcheng and Mt Emei.

WHAT SHOULD I BRING HOME?

Apart from the famed Sichuan peppercorn­s, Quanxiang distilled liquor and thick broad-bean

Chengdu really does have history and culture at every turn. To appreciate it, it’s worth understand­ing how it all started.

sauce, Chengdu has some extraordin­ary handicraft­s based on centuries-old traditions, including Shu embroidery and brocade, Qiongyao porcelain, silver filament work and handwoven bamboo products. Head to the area’s largest antique market, Songxianqi­ao Curio Art City, and spend an afternoon sifting through aged porcelain, communist relics, calligraph­y equipment and more. You’ll need to bargain and watch for knock-offs – if in doubt get a profession­al guide. For more contempora­ry shopping, there’s a number of modern malls along Chengdu’s metro lines.

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