The New Zealand Herald

Cocktail hour: Eau de Vie

- — Joanna Hunkin

1 Malthouse Lane, Melbourne

The view: Making your way through Melbourne’s iconic laneways, you’ll be treated to a colourful array of street art as you approach this hidden bar, which is identifiab­le only by a Victorian streetlamp hanging above the door. Inside you’ll be transporte­d to a world of intimate Art Deco luxury.

The vibe: We arrived late on a Sunday afternoon as part of a Drinking History Tour, booked through Airbnb Experience­s. Our party of four was whisked to a leather-lined booth and presented with special menus, featuring three of the bar’s signature cocktails.

The chat: A dapper bartender was quickly at our service to talk us through our options, including the different types of alcohol that could be used in each cocktail. You can opt for dark rum, scotch or two types of vodka for your Espresso Zabaione, for example.

The menu: As part of our tour, we were offered a special menu (at a special price) including the bar’s aforementi­oned Espresso Zabaione, which is a bit like a cross between an espresso martini and an affogato. The other options were a Yuzu Mule and a Honey Buttered Old Fashioned. We didn’t have time for snacks but our charming guide, Karina, assured us the kitchen here is excellent and the five-course degustatio­n — which is paired with cocktails — is well worth a return visit.’

The expectatio­n: Even after the detailed descriptio­n from our bartender, I wasn’t expecting the decadent concoction that arrived before us. As he poured liquid nitrogen over the sweet zabaione — creating a creamy frozen crust to the espresso below — it was hard not to be impressed.

The reality: After seven years of serving some of Melbourne’s best (and most Instagramm­able) cocktails, Eau de Vie is no longer the inside secret it once was but is every bit deserving of its sterling reputation. In a city overrun with polished concrete and upcycled wood, Eau de Vie offers a luxe reprieve and a very warm welcome.

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