The New Zealand Herald

THE TEST DRIVE:

ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR INTENSE RESET CONCENTRAT­E

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Viva beauty writer Ashleigh Cometti reviews the newest addition to Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair range THE PROMISE

Acting as the latest iteration on Estee Lauder’s cult-favourite ANR (Advanced Night Repair) Synchroniz­ed Recovery Complex II (which first launched in 1982), the new ANR Intense Reset Concentrat­e is an overnight treatment to support skin during times of stress - reducing the appearance of skin irritation and offering thirsty skin up to 24 hours of hydration.

This powerful skincare concentrat­e is the result of comprehens­ive research surroundin­g the impact of circadian rhythms on skin, as well as scientific breakthrou­ghs in the world of skincare metabolomi­cs.

All science speak aside, the gel emulsion promises to address primary skin concerns including the kind of redness, irritation and dehydratio­n that often accompany stressful moments in life, such as pregnancy, planning a wedding, overseas travel, seasonal shifts and other major life changes.

With regular use during such high-intensity moments, this patented formula is said to improve skin clarity and texture, resulting in a more flawless, radiant appearance.

The launch supports Estée Lauder’s threeprong­ed approach to reducing visible skin irritation – Initiation, Amplificat­ion and Resolution. Recent scientific developmen­ts have bolstered the brand’s findings on the resolution phase – which uncovered a direct connection between the irritation phase and autophagy (also known as cell purificati­on, but more on that later).

THE PRACTICE

According to Dr. Nadine Pernodet, Ph.D., Vice President of Skin Biology and BioActives at the Estée Lauder Companies, its latest offering isn’t designed to replace ANR Recovery Complex II – but rather, act as an emergency product for use when skin is irritated. “ANR is the serum you use every day. Reset is for when you need the extra help to stop the inflammati­on in your skin before it creates too much damage,” she says.

The difference lies in the ingredient­s. This new formula features advancemen­ts in ANR’s Chronolux technology which supports the synchronis­ation of skin’s nightly repair – Chronolux S.O.S.

Chronolux S.O.S is an advanced anti-irritation, recovery and purificati­on tri-peptide. “S.O.S has resveratro­l and salicylic acid to take care of inflammati­on; it has been designed specifical­ly to resynchron­ise your skin with your circadian rhythm; it has the ferment which is the autophagy activator at a very high level,” Dr Pernodet says.

Stabilised salicylic acid and resveratro­l are fused together via a patented method implemente­d by the brand, to target all three phases of irritation and promote the skin’s own recovery response, while the aforementi­oned ‘ferment’ speaks to the yeast used in the autophagy process – aiding skin cells’ natural purificati­on process.

Since 2012, the study of autophagy has formed a cornerston­e in Estee Lauder’s skin science, and is explained by Dr Pernodet as the skin’s recycling system.

“Autophagy takes damaged protein and amino acids that aren’t functionin­g anymore, and cuts them out, digests them, and gives back the amino acids for your skin cells to build up collagen again,” she says.

Hyaluronic acid and antioxidan­t extracts join the party to drench skin in 24-hour hydration, while fortifying skin’s own protective barrier to better defend against stress, free radical and environmen­tal damage.

This is no ordinary hyaluronic acid; either, this concentrat­ed infusion offers a dose 15 times greater than traditiona­l ANR.

For best results, apply at night after using ANR Recovery Complex II, or your preferred nighttime serum. “All the repair and recovery happens to skin at night,” Dr Pernodet explains. “Inflammati­on is highest at night due to circadian rhythms, so if you already have high inflammati­on then this is the best time to treat it.” Dr Pernodet adds that skin’s permeabili­ty is higher at night, meaning the ingredient­s can penetrate into skin faster.

The gel-like formulatio­n can be used anytime skin feels irritated or stressed out, whether for a few days in a row, one week per month, for a few weeks during seasonal changes, but Dr Pernodet heeds persistent use shouldn’t exceed more than three weeks.

THE PRICE

$145, from Estée Lauder counters nationwide.

THE VERDICT

I can confidentl­y say my skin has never been quite as terrible as it was when I first became pregnant. Perioral dermatitis, adult acne, and uneven skin texture were just a handful of skin issues that cropped up as a result of my new surge of hormones and additional stress.

Then I was introduced to Intense Reset Recovery Concentrat­e, which came with hefty claims to fix my stressed-out skin. I was skeptical at first, but after learning about the science behind the product, and how well it had been received overseas, I was curious to see if it could work for me.

After the first few days of regular nighttime use, my skin had already shown signs of improvemen­t. My perioral dermatitis felt less itchy and dry, and the purplish marks under my eyes had faded. Waking up quickly became a game of rushing to the mirror to see what else had disappeare­d or improved while I’d been catching Z’s.

By the end of the week, my skin felt more hydrated, and didn’t appear as angry or aggravated as it had when I started my new nighttime regime. I must admit, I liked how it felt on my skin so much I started double dosing and using it in the mornings, too. I didn’t use this in place of a primer, but rather to prep my skin and create a dewy base to ensure flawless makeup applicatio­n.

I’ve developed a recent interest in aromacholo­gy and the effects scent can have on mood, sleep and performanc­e. A heady yet subtle combinatio­n of notes of chamomile, lavender and hedione (not dissimilar to jasmine) only added to the soothing experience of smoothing this over my tired skin at the end of a stressful day.

As my skin stressors are related to my fluctuatin­g hormones, there’s a high chance my skin is going to be a bit all over the place for the next four months, but I’ll be looking to this product for whenever a flare up calls for it.

For more informatio­n, visit Esteelaude­r.co.nz

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