The New Zealand Herald

Parker’s Tavern

- — Stephanie Holmes

We arrived…

From two floors up. My mum and I were staying at the University Arms Hotel — a historic Cambridge hotel that reopened in August 2018 after an £80 million ($160m) four-year rebuild and renovation — and so we only had to tear ourselves away from our beautiful suite and head down in the lift. My Cambridge-based friend Amy joined us.

We chose here because…

Not only was it the easiest option for us as we were hotel guests, but the restaurant had also come highly recommende­d by Amy. It’s become a popular place for Cambridge locals, too — a true destinatio­n dining spot for those in the know.

Our first impression was…

There was a gentle bustle in the room, with tables of internatio­nal and local diners. One large group were celebratin­g a birthday before heading out on the town. The restaurant has been designed to resemble a dining hall from one of Cambridge University’s colleges. The walls were laden with artworks, and there were large windows looking out to Parker’s Piece — 25 acres of green space in the middle of Cambridge, which is widely regarded as the place where the rules of football were created.

We started with…

Parker’s cured salmon, served with wild herb and caper salad; tempura new season courgettes, with honey, cider vinegar and black pepper; and fish cakes with chopped egg, parsley, capers and lemon butter sauce. The menu is strongly influenced by classic British dishes, but they’re given a contempora­ry twist, and made with mostly local produce.

The highlight was…

my honey and thyme slow-roasted Norfolk duck, served with bitter greens and silky creamed potatoes — the definition of comfort food. Rich and filling. Mum had the classic British beef spaghetti Bolognese, and was glad she took the waiter’s advice to go for the small portion — this was still huge, and she struggled to finish it all. It, too, was excellent.

I’d confidentl­y say you’ll be happy with anything you choose on the menu. The chef director is Tristan Welch, who trained under Gary Rhodes and worked at Le Gavroche under Michel Roux Jr, before moving to Paris to work at triple Michelinst­arred vegetarian restaurant L’Arpege. You’re in good hands.

Dessert was…

a British cheese selection, which was excellent value — so much cheese, and all of it mouthwater­ingly delicious. Mum and Amy went for sorbets — the waiter gave them an order sheet where they selected flavour, number of scoops, toppings and sauces. A lovely end to a wonderful meal.

The bill…

$138 for three people — three courses for each person, and a bottle of wine.

Make a date…

From September 30, Welch is launching a monthly Monday night supper club called “Rubbish Cooks”, where for £20 a head, guests can enjoy a three-course meal made entirely from what is usually regarded as food waste. The cost covers service and a donation to Jimmy’s Night Shelter, a Cambridge-based charity. Pre-book via email — inquiries@parkerstav­ern.com.

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