THE SOCIAL KITCHEN
A top Auckland chef and his friends tell Viva why ethical choices at the till are synonymous with quality.
Patrick Schmitt and his friends know how to have a good time. The head chef of Madame George is cooking Sunday lunch, and there’s no shortage of guests, some of them mates from the hospo scene. After the meal there will be dancing, loud hip-hop and naps on the couch, but so far this is a chilled affair, full of laughter and a palpable appreciation for each other’s company. Simon ( restaurant manager at The French Café) pours a local Pét- Nat, (an ancient form of naturally sparkling wine), Emmylou ( restaurant manager at Orphans Kitchen) drops radish slices into sparkling water, and the chef’s friends Shane and Mariana slice asparagus, broccolini and courgette to char in the pan. Meanwhile, Patrick poaches globe artichokes and roasts organic chickens in the oven, standing them on the rack so their juices drip into the tray of semi- smashed potatoes below.
Today’s meal has been created entirely from locally sourced ingredients. It’s not unusual for Patrick to visit several farmers markets and specialty stores, although as his girlfriend Olga laughs, they’ve learnt not to spend too long shopping after once “carpoaching” the kahawai meant for sashimi.
Today’s entrée is a dish the German chef tried when he and Olga visited his parents, who live in the South of France. Former chefs themselves, they introduced the couple to cooked globe artichokes, from which they were invited to pluck the fleshy buds and dip them in a saffron, garlic and chilli mayonnaise. Served with a crusty loaf from Daily Bread and Madame George’s famous smoked rosemary butter, it’s a delicious start to the meal – and perfect for sharing.
“Wherever possible I source from New Zealand,” says Patrick. “It just makes sense. If we do a cheese board in the restaurant I’ll source a beautiful selection of New Zealand cheese. The bread is from a baker who uses only New Zealand- grown grains. There’s so much craftsmanship that goes into it.”
Much of the food is the result of a contented morning shopping for greens and vegetables at the Grey Lynn Farmers Market and foraging at the Kingsland Community Orchard, where Patrick collected thyme, rosemary, borage, calendula, onion weed, nasturtium flowers and bay leaf. This approach is typical for the chef, who says he’d rather forgo convenience for quality. In other words, eating locally and seasonally isn’t necessarily an ethical decision to promote environmental wellbeing, sustainability or good health, but one that has epicurean benefits.
“If you buy from the markets, people talk to you and you find out where and how they grew their produce,” says Patrick, relaying his chat with the farmer who sold his Kumeu- grown organic vegetables.
Emmylou, also a fan of the Grey Lynn Farmers Market, agrees.
“I think it’s beautiful when you buy from somebody and there’s a real connection there. You know the person who grew this and it’s not been sitting in a freezer in a supermarket, ripened artificially and then sprayed. The flavour’s at its peak.”
When it comes to sourcing meat, fish, bread and cheese, the same logic applies: find the best local artisans, butchers and fisheries ( Patrick likes Leigh Fisheries and Gravity Fishing for their sustainable practices) and let the ingredients do the talking. Patrick swears by Bostocks free-range organic chickens from Hawke’s Bay, purchased at the Grey Lynn Butcher. While he’s the first to acknowledge that they’re more expensive than non- organic, the meat looks and feels superior, he says.
“It has a different texture, it’s so firm and really healthy. [ The chickens, raised on apples, corn and barley] are almost too happy.”
Besides, you can offset the cost of quality ingredients by cooking, rather than buying takeaways or store- bought, say the group, some of whom make their own breakfast cereals and snacks.
A magnum of organic French Syrah/Grenache is now opened, glasses are clinked and Patrick serves the chicken, potatoes and salad that’s almost too pretty to eat, decorated with nasturtium and a silky goat’s cheese from Il Casaro in Wairau Park. As we tuck in it’s the only time the group grows quiet, other than expressions of satisfaction between mouthfuls.
It won’t be long before the same crew of friends gathers to celebrate their most legendary meal: the collaborative Christmas Eve dinner. With up to 15 courses, much wine and several power naps, the evening often drifts into the wee hours of Christmas Day. And you can bet it won’t just be Patrick driving around Auckland in search of the best ingredients.
“Every time we eat together we try to use great producers,” says Simon. “The aim is not about being 100 percent ethical but natural. It’s a big part of eating for pleasure.”
“Food is an energy,” adds Susan, a TV producer.
“You can taste when there’s love in the food.”