HAIR-WASHING 101

Shampooing tips from the pros

Though it may seem a simple task and one you might pay little attention to, believe it or not, there is a right and wrong way to wash your hair. Hairdresser Michael Van Clarke says: “From my professional experience of over 25 years, consumers don’t know how to use products properly to get the best results.”

From aggressive washing to picking the wrong ingredients for your hair type, there are a host of things that can contribute to damaging your tresses in the shower. That said, here is everything you need to know before your next wash day...

THE BASICS

Know your hair type

Michael notes that most people are unsatisfied with hair care products because they’re unaware of their hair type. To avoid disappointment, get to know your locks. Analyse whether they’re coarse, oily, thick, thin or chemically treated.

“Think about whether your hair is a different type at the roots and at the ends,” says Michael. “It’s generally best to select a shampoo that will benefit your scalp and root area, then select a conditioner that will work for the middle and ends of your hair.”

For fine to medium hair, opt for a product that offers volume and is free of weighty silicones. For dry or coarse hair, look for a moisturising shampoo that will nourish and protect against further damage. And for coloured hair, use a product that offers UV protection, as this will help to prevent any loss of hue.

Wash the right way

Begin washing by thoroughly wetting your hair, then apply a small amount (the size of a 10c coin) of shampoo to the root area and underside of your scalp, near the nape of your neck. Apply more product if your hair is longer or thicker. Next, gently — but firmly — massage your scalp for one minute, after which you should begin squishing the suds through the lengths of your strands a few times, which will cleanse them without extra shampoo.

“There’s no need to scrub your hair, as this can damage it. Also, don’t pile your hair on top of your head when you shampoo as this can tangle your strands and cause breakage. Instead, let your hair fall behind you and rinse well until the water runs clear,” says Anabel Kingsley, trichologist at Philip Kingsley.

Frequency of washing depends on your hair type, but going more than three days between washes could negatively impact your scalp. However, coarse, curly or coily hair usually benefits from fewer wash days. THE INGREDIENTS

There are ingredients to look for in a shampoo and others to avoid. Fine hair will need thickening aids like rice protein (try KMS AddPower Shampoo $34), while coarse, curly hair will benefit from moisturising agents like shea butter ( Ouai

Thick Hair Shampoo $55, is a treat).

Silicones

Silicones and some sulphates are ingredients to steer clear of. Michael says, “Silicone is not good for your hair and scalp but unfortunately it’s in 99 per cent of shampoos and conditioners because it’s cheap and instantly cosmetically effective. Silicone will lubricate your hair but won’t nourish, rejuvenate, restore or hydrate it, which is why it’s so important that you avoid any hair product that contains it.” Like a cling film sheath, silicones make your hair seem shiny, silky and smooth but, as a hydrophobic, it pushes water away and displaces moisture. The result? Hair’s protein structure becomes more brittle, less flexible and breaks down. You might even see it as premature ageing of the hair.

Sulphates

Not all sulphates are created equal and Michael points out that there is much misinformation about these cleansers, which can actually do a world of good. “Commonly used in shampoo, sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) is a very effective surfactant (surface active agent), which helps the shampoo dissolve grease and dirt but can then be easily rinsed out. This can be good or bad depending on hair type or skin sensitivity.”

There are various sulphates out there and, while SLS might be the harshest or most effective degreaser and foam producer (not ideal for dry hair or sensitive scalps), other sulphates like sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) and ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS) are gentle enough to do their job without irritating sensitive skin or fading hair dye.