MAKING IT WORK

The designer behind the Thom Morison menswear studio shares the inspiration behind the brand

Designer Thom Sussex shares his inspiration for the Thom Morison label

“Ihave had a fascination with menswear from an early age which probably stemmed from the fact my pop was in the menswear trade for the majority of his professional life. He and his two brothers had five stores spread across Auckland from the 1960s to the 1980s, specialising in New Zealand-made suits and everyday wear. It was my nana who first taught me how to sew. She had worked as a sewing instructor for Singer in the UK for many years, so she was always a wealth of knowledge.

In 2019 I went overseas, travelling with my wife across America and Europe. It was this time that really inspired me to be doing what I am doing now. Helsinki was probably the highlight — people were so passionate about their culture and their country, from the sauna ferris wheel on the docks to Converse being replaced with Finnish sneaker brand Karhu. I think sometimes we Kiwis become so infatuated by other cultures we forget about developing our own.

I have always loved the experience of going to the local brewery, coffee roastery or bakery, where the labour required to make the final product is visible to the customer. You see the whole process unfold while you go to buy that croissant. There’s something special about that. I visited a store in Bristol when I was travelling, called Ottowin; they make handcrafted leather boots at the back end of the store and I remember being intrigued. Having the work studio present in the retail environment gives the product a depth of character but also a deeper connection and belonging to the brand. I wanted to recreate that experience, that instant feeling of being connected to the maker, giving you the opportunity to be educated if you want to learn more about what goes into each piece.

I think the people in and around the Grey Lynn area understand what I’m about and love supporting local, so it’s a great community to be among. I had never sold to the public before so I think when you sell to someone you don’t know for the first time, it’s pretty special. The ethos of Thom Morison is quality, functionality, comfortability and locality. Easily paired, timeless pieces that can be styled in a multitude of ways. I do think producing locally is important, and it does have limitations, but I think sometimes limitations actually benefit the creative process. I’m currently working on some knitwear where the whole process from the yarn to garment is grown and made in New Zealand, which I’m excited about.

I like to spend 70 per cent of my time pattern-making and sampling. This is where my passion truly lies, the design and the feel of the clothes on the wearer. My process of designing is very hands-on, a lot of what I create is developed while I’m patterning a garment. The other 30 per cent is spent on everything else that goes into making a menswear business tick, whether it’s fabric-sourcing, doing a photo shoot or organising accounts. I have some incredible friends who help out more than they should but I am incredibly thankful.”