Walks not to be sniffed at
Cue the nose wrinkling and eggy farting jokes, but a trip to the thermal melting pot of Rotorua is more than just olfactory overload, writes Ceana Priest
With its underground geothermal action bubbling close to the surface, it’s hard to avoid the unique aroma of Rotorua. But those sulphur fumes oozing through the thermal landscape are quickly forgotten while eyeballing entertaining belching mud pools and ambling through apocalyptic landscapes. Of course, the adventure city also has plenty of adrenaline thrills and spills on offer, but if the family needs an outing that won’t jangle the nerves, here are five nature walks to explore this autumn.
Tikitapu Nature Walk Lake Tikitapu/Blue Lake
Get up close to a hollow pukatea tree that survived the three peaks of Tarawera erupting in a fiery display of lightning and ash plumes in 1886 — although you’ll see the native tree didn’t escape without some battle scars. For 30 minutes, commune with nature along this undulating trail with helpful signage about local forest residents. Efforts are under way to boost the population of threatened native mistletoe species growing in the region. If you are keen on mistletoe, visit the nearby five-minute-long Ōkāreka Mistletoe Walk on Ōkāreka Loop Rd. Then, bring the togs for a dip in Lake Tikitapu/ Blue Lake.
Need to know: About 11km from Rotorua just before Lake Tikitapu/Blue Lake on the left. Cross the field to the entrance. Only suitable for walking. No dogs.
Sulphur Bay Wildlife Refuge Central Rotorua
If lengthier hikes don’t enthuse the family, sidle your way around this barren slab of silica flats and sulphur ledges instead. This wild-looking 145ha landscape checks off a whole slew of thermal highlights with boardwalks and trails passing close to boiling mud pools, steam vents and piping hot mineral water. You’ll spy flocks of endangered birds unfazed by the acidic waters and unpredictable geothermal activity, including a colony of black-billed gull/tarāpuka that has forsaken South Island braided rivers for this moonscape. Although you could explore east for at least an hour, there are highlights near the start, so it doesn’t matter if the troops cause an early mutiny.
Need to know: Multiple starting points off Hatupatu Drive behind the Energy Events Centre. Suitable for walking, buggies and bikes. No dogs.
Ōkere Falls Walk & Hinemoa’s Steps Ōkere Falls
You’ll hear the terrified screams of rafters long before watching them plunge off the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall, the seven-metrehigh Tutea Falls. From the car park, the trail passes historic hydroelectric power station machinery submerged in the Kaituna River before reaching Hinemoa’s Steps with views of all the frothy rafting action. Here you can descend the hand-carved stairway into a dark cavern occupied by cave wētā. The steps were carved beside the waterfall in 1907 and named after a wellknown local Māori woman. The reserve is part of the Toyota Kiwi Guardians programme, so keep an eye out for the guardian post to claim your wooden adventurer medal; download a map from kiwiguardians.co.nz
Need to know: 21km from Rotorua on SH33. Turn left on to Trout Pool Rd after kere Falls township. Toilets available. Suitable for walking. Allow 60 minutes to explore. No dogs allowed.
Kuirau Park Central Rotorua
Autumn turns this apocalyptic landscape into a steamy wonderland in the middle of town. Billowing plumes waft over boardwalks engulfed by the misty action — time it right, you’ll be smack-bang in a white-out surrounded by iridescent pools and spluttering thermal vents. There’s more to explore at the park’s southern end, including a free foot bath and playground — and all so close to cafes to refuel and top up caffeine levels.
Need to know: Parking on Kuirau St, which winds through the park. Suitable for walking, wheelchairs, buggies and bikes. Dogs on leads.
Lake Ōkareka Walkway Lake Ōkareka
This serene lake hasn’t always been a haven for native birds stalking through tufted patches of raupō/bullrush. Things were grim 13,500 years ago when an ancient magma chamber violently emptied itself over the neighbouring landscape, choking everything with ash. The lake formed in the subsequent depression, and until the 1960s, it didn’t have an outlet, so water levels fluctuated wildly after rainfall. Today, this year-round adventure is ideal for buggies for the first two kilometres until the boardwalk ends and the trail becomes walking-only. So bring your binoculars and hunker down in the bird hide for some serious bird-spotting.
Need to know: Access from Acacia Rd beside Lake Okāreka, about 15km from Rotorua. Allow 90 minutes return for the 5km walk or 60 minutes return for the boardwalk and bird hide. No bikes or dogs.