It’s not just what’s in the jar

- but what happens to the jar… the inspiring tale of Emma Lewisham.

The world will cleanse, moisturise and apply $US186 billion of skincare lotions and serums this year and, in a glamour industry dominated by global brands that are bywords for luxury and indulgence, an Auckland woman and her small team have become one of the most admired players.

Emma Lewisham skincare products – backed by Kiwibank – are used by Margot Robbie, Naomi Watts and, famously, endorsed by conservationist Dame Jane Goodall; stocked in-store and online in MECCA (Australasian beauty retailer), Harrods, Liberty, Goop, regularly reviewed by the world’s leading fashion editors and used at the Oscars.

It wasn’t just the high-performing products that caught Kiwibank’s eye – it was the unique Lewisham focus on genuine sustainability. It has positioned them, the bank says, for success as world regulations tighten up on matters like emissions, leaving products with small carbon footprints poised to take very big steps indeed.

“When we work with a business that have outstanding products coupled with a clear sustainability direction, it gives us confidence that the business model is really sound, that the business has thought about a wide range of risks and also opportunities,” Tom Williams, Kiwibank’s Head of Sustainable Finance, says.

Reflecting on when she stepped away from her tech career six years ago, founder Emma Lewisham says she never set out to launch a skincare brand rather to solve problems. “I could see a big opportunity to provide something fundamentally better for both people and our planet. “For my own health and sense of wellbeing I wanted luxurious, natural products that worked – but this didn’t exist on the market. I could also see that the beauty industry had a serious waste and carbon problem that needed solving.

“No one had really uncovered that the majority of the 120 billion beauty jars and containers being produced globally were not being recycled and going to landfill due to the way they’re made, and that they are also the largest carbon emitter in beauty.”

For her, what happened to the jars, containers and tubes when people finished with them was important: “If that material is disposed of in kerbside recycling, not only is it likely to go to landfill, but you also have to create that jar again from scratch, and the biggest impact on our planet is the act of creating things. The beauty industry needed new thinking, new solutions and someone needed to pioneer a new way of operating.”

That led her to launch the Emma Lewisham range in 2019, knowing it’s what’s in the jar that counts but also what happens to the jar afterwards. “We have discovered a scientifically superior way of formulating skincare which has impressed Nobel Prize Winner, Frances Arnold (US-based Arnold won the 2018 prize in chemistry).

“It’s about formulating in a way that mirrors the cellular pathways of your skin and combining ingredients in a way that triggers action across multiple skin pathways in symphony. It’s been described by international beauty journalists as pioneering, powerful, and a true breakthrough in what can be achieved by skincare.”

Her products are at the forefront of refining what science has unlocked from natural base ingredients. “The testing behind all our products is world-leading – we test in laboratories in France and Belgium and are even pioneering new ways to test skincare that didn’t exist. We believe that to prove our products truly do as they say, independent scientific testing of our final formulations is essential.” Key to the ethos has been ‘circularity’.

“We were the world’s first certified Climate Positive and 100 per cent circular-designed skincare brand. This means all our products have a positive environmental impact and all our packaging is designed to be refilled.

“We are proving that operating sustainably and taking responsibility for everything we produce is not only possible but prosperous.”

While that led to Lewisham’s much-prized endorsement from Goodall, it wasn’t an easy sell to stockists. “We knew that reusing and refilling must be the future of skincare. However, when we launched, this circular model was not prevalent at all. Many retailers told us that customers simply wouldn’t buy into it.

“However, we truly believed that, given the opportunity to lessen their environmental footprint and waste, customers would adapt their behaviour – and we were correct. One of MECCA’s top selling products now is our Skin Reset refill.” Lewisham is proud her products have been accepted internationally while being produced in Auckland. “While we are a small country, across multiple different industries we consistently prove we can deliver world-leading products and innovations.

“When we started, so many people told us it couldn’t be done, that it wasn’t possible to produce luxurious, natural and high-performing skincare and we could never compete with the well-established skincare giants. Fast-forward to today and, in many instances, our formulations have been proven to out-perform these brands.

“The global growth we’ve seen over the past four years is proof not only that it can be done, but that you should never believe anyone who tells you that something isn’t possible.” Kiwibank’s support has been crucial. “We were looking for a banking partner that really understood and supported highgrowth businesses and was very aligned on our sustainability values. Kiwibank genuinely cares about New Zealand’s wider economy and our environment, which we really value.

“As we have continued to invest and grow in international markets, Kiwibank have provided tailored solutions to support our funding requirements and supercharge our growth. They are a joy to work with. They care about their work and their clients, and their purpose - to ensure tamariki are better off, Kiwi are better off, and Aotearoa is better off - is prevalent in everything they do.”

For Williams, Emma Lewisham is a true Kiwi success story. “What may be different about Emma Lewisham, but is shared among those who succeed really quickly, is having a clear purpose or problem you’re trying to solve. “When you talk to someone leading a successful business, you’ll find they are passionate, they’re driven and it’s part of their DNA. That’s how it is with Emma Lewisham: she fully understands where the business needs to go. She realised you could create something in New Zealand that is high-value, that’s better for the environment and leads the charge on circularity.

“When we work with a business that has a clear sustainability direction, it gives us confidence that the business model is really sound, that the business has thought about a wide range of risks and also opportunities,” Williams says.

This will become more important for New Zealand businesses. The European Union, for one, is imposing firm guidelines on emissions reduction throughout the supply chain for companies wanting to export there. “Emma Lewisham is really leading the charge. They are set up to succeed as the regulations change. From a Kiwibank perspective, that gives us confidence their revenue won’t get cut off from a lack of access to the market.”

Watch the full episode in Kiwibank’s series, Business for Better, and learn more about how Emma Lewisham are leading the way in how they do business for better www.kiwibank.co.nz/businessforbetter This article was proudly brought to you by Kiwibank, who believe sustainability and profitability go handin-hand when creating a future proof business. That’s why Kiwibank support Kiwi businesses making a positive impact on the environment, their customers and their employees. This is business banking for better #ThisisKiwi.