Ancient custom has always involved an element of danger
An annual family right to harvest muttonbirds on remote islands has claimed many lives over the years, writes Clio Francis.
EACH year generations of families make the journey across Southland’s treacherous Foveaux Strait as part of a long-established Maori custom – the annual muttonbirding season.
But this week, the pilgrimage of one family turned to tragedy in the crossing’s rough, dark waters. Nine people were aboard the 11-metre fishing boat Easy Rider when a rogue wave struck off Saddle Point on the northern tip of Stewart Island at midnight on Wednesday.
Shane Ronald Topi, 29, William Rewai Desmond Karetai, 47, Paul Jason Fowler-karetai, 40, Odin Karetai, 7, Boe Taikawa Gillies, 28, John Henry Karetai, 58, Peter Glen Pekamu-bloxham, 53, and David George Fowler, 50, were yesterday named as victims of the sea.
Relatives say they were the first batch of family to travel to the Titi (Muttonbird) Islands to pre- pare for the coming season – just as they did every year.
In 2006, six people died in the same stretch of water when the 15m boat, Kotuku, capsized. Those aboard were returning after their annual muttonbird hunt on the Titi Islands.
Police Superintendent Barry Taylor said yesterday that the latest capsize had brought back bad memories. ‘‘It is deja vu. It is unbelievable it could happen again.’’
Muttonbirding on the islands, near Stewart Island, is a family right available only to the Ngai Tahu and Ngati Mamoe tribes, also known as Rakiura Maori.
Muttonbird seasons are short – they traditionally begin on April 1 and run until May 31. But from the start of March, many families start to make the journey across the treacherous stretch of water to perform maintenance on their huts or work on tracks.
Foveaux Strait is considered to
Anna Brown holds up some prepared muttonbirds as gear and birds are loaded ready to leave Papatea Island, off the south coast from Bluff. be one of the most unpredictable stretches of water in the world. It is 46 metres at its deepest and only 30 kilometres wide. Conditions the night the Easy Rider sunk were thought to be extremely rough.
Bluff’s Tiny Metzger, 79, has been travelling to his family’s island to catch muttonbirds since he was born. Mr Metzger, a retired boatbuilder of Ngai Tahu descent, makes the journey each year, now accompanied by his grandchildren and great-grandchildren.
‘‘To me it’s very important. A lot of families only come together and have Christmas but we also have muttonbirding. We meet up to do preparation for birding and then we all come together on the Muttonbird Islands for a week.’’
While he used to take a twohour boat trip to the island, his family now charter a helicopter, sending only their supplies by sea.
‘‘It’s changing all the time. When I was young the family and the stores all went ashore in a dinghy. You would waste a day getting ashore and it’s hard work.
‘‘Then once you get there you’ve got to climb up a cliff. Most of the islands you’ve got to climb, you can’t just land on the beach.’’
This week’s tragedy occurred as the family was returning from completing work before the muttonbird season began.
This was an important part of any season, Mr Metzger said. ‘‘The tracks would have to be tidied up, repairs to any houses would have to be done. There is lots of work to be done.’’
Otago University lecturer Dr Jim Williams, who specialises in Ngai Tahu history and tradition, said for Maori, muttonbirding was an important cultural practice. ‘‘It’s to do with your identity. There are certain things we do as Maori. For some their only experience of going to a marae, doing something traditional, might be going to a tangi. For others it’s muttonbirding.’’
There were different ways to catch muttonbirds, young sooty shearwaters, he said.
‘‘In the first half of the season, in March and early April, they take them from the holes.
‘‘Later in the season, as they get older they come out at night and stretch their wings. We light torches and take them round and find the chicks who are out, they tend to be the bigger ones. You just grab them, they don’t move that fast.’’
For Mr Metzger, there are few things in life as delicious as a muttonbird.
He disputes their cooking emits a pervasive stench.
‘‘It’s a sweet aroma, that’s what it is.’’