The Post

Dig reveals strange ancient beer recipe

- CHINA

New research on 5000-year-old pottery fragments found in China has shed light on the region’s earliest beer brewing practices – and may provide new insight into the history of Asian agricultur­e.

‘‘This beer recipe indicates a mix of Chinese and Western traditions – barley from the West, millet, Job’s tears and tubers from China,’’ Jiajing Wang of Stanford University, who led a study published this week in the Proceeding­s of the National Academy of Sciences, told Agence France-Presse.

Wang and her team analysed the ancient alcohol by scraping yellowish residue out of the pottery remains – fragments of vessels they think were shaped for the various stages of beer making. They were found in an undergroun­d site in Shaanxi province.

Their results indicate a brew made from a variety of wild and cultivated grains, plus a few tubers, such as yam and lily, that would have made the sour suds a bit sweeter.

Unfortunat­ely, we won’t get to try this historic beverage for ourselves, because the researcher­s don’t know the exact ratio of ingredient­s used in the recipe.

At the dig site, they found the sort of grain husks one would expect to see scattered around an ancient brewery. Microscopi­c analysis of the residual gunk inside the vessels revealed starch grains that had been mangled as they would be during malting and mashing.

They also found what they believe to be ancient stoves used to heat mashed grains – important in the process of transformi­ng boozy sugar.

The would-be brewery’s undergroun­d location would also have been ideal, as it would have allowed beer makers to keep their product cool.

With that evidence, Wang and her team think they have found the oldest known beer brewery in China.

Archaeolog­ists have found evidence of rice fermentati­on dating to about 9000 years ago (which may actually be the first evidence of humankind’s tendency to tipple), but barley beer, which showed up in the Middle East about 5400 years ago, was thought to be a more recent addition to Chinese culture.

In fact, the researcher­s say, the presence of barley at their archaeolog­ical site pushes the grain’s Chinese history back by about 1000 years.

Their discovery suggests that barley, which contains high levels of a protein that converts carbohydra­tes into sugar during the fermentati­on process, was actually brought into China for the purposes of beer brewing, then slowly made a transition to use as a food crop about 3000 years ago.

‘‘It is possible that when barley was introduced from western Eurasia into the Central Plain of China, it came with the knowledge that the grain was a good ingredient for beer brewing,’’ Wang said. the carbohydra­tes into

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 ?? PHOTO: WASHINGTON POST ?? Scientific analysis of this funnelled pottery vessel has found that it was used for making beer in ancient China.
PHOTO: WASHINGTON POST Scientific analysis of this funnelled pottery vessel has found that it was used for making beer in ancient China.

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