Three ways with ... New-season apples
Recipes never taste so good as when the ingredients are fresh and straight from the orchard or garden.
Iwas confused by headlines in January claiming shoppers were anxious because the new season’s apples were yet to show up in shops. Do these people not know that apples are an autumn thing? Or are we so used to the conflagration of the seasons that we’ve forgotten how these things work?
Wander down to your supermarket at any time of year and you’re likely to find apples of indeterminate age and provenance. But, for me, nothing beats them in early autumn, when their tart-sweet flavours echo summer’s last gasps.
Apple, fennel and walnut salad
Serves 3-4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: nil
This is very refreshing – inspired by the classic Waldorf, but minus the mayonnaise (not to mention the celery).
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
2 large fennel bulbs, trimmed (reserve the fronds)
2-3 apples (a tart-sweet variety, like Braeburn), peeled and cored
1 cups lightly toasted walnut halves, roughly chopped
cup plain yoghurt 1 tablespoon New Zealand extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper
Put the lemon juice and zest into a bowl. Cut the fennel into long matchsticks and put them in the bowl, turning to coat in the lemon juice. Do the same with the apples, making sure they are wellcoated with lemon juice.
Fold through the yoghurt and olive oil, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Scatter over most of the fennel fronds and walnuts, and stir gently.
Sprinkle over the remaining fennel fronds and walnuts and serve.
Apple and coconut fool
Serves 3-4 Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 10-15 minutes
This is a very simple pudding (or luxury breakfast) that requires little of the cook. There are two key tasks: remembering to put the coconut cream in the fridge at least five hours before you want to prepare the fool, and buying proper cooking apples, which have a tart flavour, and a fluffy consistency when cooked.
3-4 Ballarat cooking apples, peeled, cored and halved A strip of lemon rind 1 cup coconut cream, well chilled 1 tablespoon icing sugar 1 teaspoon natural vanilla extract A pinch of ground cinnamon
Put the apples in a small pot with 1⁄3 cup water and the lemon rind. Cover and cook over medium heat for 10-15 minutes, until the apples are soft. Remove from the heat, discard the lemon peel, drain off any liquid, and transfer to a bowl. Whip with a fork until it forms a smooth puree, then refrigerate until cold.
Open the coconut cream and scoop out the thick, almost solid material from the tin (if you’ve got good coconut cream, this will be nearly all of it). Put into a bowl and add the icing sugar, then beat it until fluffy (an electric beater will save your forearms).
Fold this mixture through the chilled apple puree to get a marbled effect. Scoop into little glass bowls, sprinkle with cinnamon, and serve.
Apple cider cheese sauce
Serves 3-4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes
Bypass those sickly-sweet bulk-brand ciders and dig out a New Zealand-made variety for this extremely moreish and versatile sauce (I used Forecast Cider from the Wairarapa when I made this recently, not least because there’s plenty left for the cook to sample).
When hot, the sauce can be used like a fondue (dip in chunks of crisp apple or crusty bread) or spooned over roasted apples and onions.
If you’ve got some left over, chill it in the fridge before spreading it on toasted baguette and flashing it under the grill. 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons plain flour 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 cup dry cider 3 cups grated cheddar cheese
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and add the flour.
Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes. Add the mustard and cider, stirring well with a wooden spoon.
Lower the heat slightly and continue to stir the mixture as it froths up (it will smell amazing) for another 7-10 minutes. It will thicken up during this process. Add the cheese and stir well, then cook for another 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
When the sauce is smooth and thick, season well with black pepper (it’s unlikely to need salt), and use as directed above. More of Lucy’s recipes at kitchen-maid.blogspot.co.nz