Lorna Thornber.
Head to places where vegetarianism is mainstream or reigns supreme, writes
Iwill never forget the look of dismay on my vegetarian mate’s face when we sat down to our first meal in the Czech Republic. Pork dumplings and stews with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes were the only options on the menu.
Her culinary nightmare of travelling through Eastern Europe brought to life. She didn’t make a fuss as she tucked into her super-sized plate of fermented cabbage and mash (they doubled up on the vege to make up for the lack of meat) but I could sense her disappointment. Much of the fun of travelling comes from indulging in dishes you’d never get back home.
Fortunately, as we delved deeper into Prague’s narrow cobblestoned lanes, we happened upon several eateries serving up imaginative vegetarian dishes inspired by both traditional Czech and overseas fare.
Sitting in the 15th-century building that houses Clear Head restaurant, chowing down on raw cucumber ‘‘spaghetti’’ with sundried tomato pesto, I was inspired to go vego myself. After days of stodgy meaty fare, it was a revelation.
While you can find vegofriendly eateries in most tourist hotspots these days, if you look hard enough, those looking for the best plant-based cuisine on the planet should head to a destination where vegetarianism isn’t just accepted, but celebrated.
Here are a few suggestions to whet that healthy appetite.
Berlin
With bratwurst and currywurst among the national dishes, a trip to Germany is likely to strike fear into the heart of any vegetarian.
It’s anything but a sausage-fest in Berlin though, where vegetarianism is truly mainstream. American culinary magazine Saveur anointed it the New Vegetarian Capital of the World in 2015, saying it’s the only city in the western world where vegetarian cuisine has reached ‘‘complete culinary parity’’ with meaty fare.
Marcus Jansch, managing director of Cookies Cream restaurant, told the magazine that the shift toward vegetarianism has been driven by a new ‘‘creative class’’ who care about animals and the environment and are thoughtful about what they eat.
Whether you’re after street food, casual eats or fine dining, there are enough options to send you into a food coma. Cookies Cream, the foodie little sister of luxe nightclub Cookies, is perfect for gourmets.
Wander through the delivery area of the Westin Grand, find the door under the flickering light bulbs, hit the buzzer and you’re transported to a chic industrial space where you can tuck into the likes of vegetarian caviar with avocado, truffle-spike parmesan dumplings, and herb sorbet with salted oats.
Kopps, Le Mano Verde and Lucky Leek are other options for the fine of palate and deep of pocket, while Momos - which specialises in organic vegetarian dumplings – and creperie/burger bar Let it Be are delicious and reasonably priced. For fast food, head to Vego Foodworld where you can indulge in vegan versions of German classics as well as burgers.
Ethiopia
Even The Simpsons know the Ethiopians can cook.
There’s an episode in which Marge dubiously follows Bart and Lisa into a dodgy-looking Ethiopian restaurant only for the food that had looked so unappetising on the menu to create a literal disco in her mouth.
Most Ethiopian dishes are served with injera: a bread made from an ancient, gluten-free grain called tef, which is used to scoop up the rest of the meal. Not all Ethiopian fare is vegetarian but a good portion of it is.
One of the most popular dishes is shiro be kibbe, traditionally a peasant dish but so good that even the rich can’t get enough of it. A comforting blend of ground split peas and chickpeas and spiced clarified butter, it’s ultra rich and ultra delicious. Wash it down with a glass of tej (aka honey wine).
Tantamount to the national drink, made with unprocessed honey, is a potent blend of sweet and hoppy.
If you can’t make it to Ethiopia, many sizeable cities around the world have excellent authentic Ethiopian restaurants. who are the odd ones out here.
Dosa – thin rice-flour-and-lentil pancakes stuffed with innumerable sweet and savoury fillings – are a local specialty. Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bangalore has been said to produce the world’s best dosas but its other specialties are equally delectable. Think rava idli (steamed semolina cakes with a sauce of yoghurt, coriander cashews, curry leaves and mustard seeds) and deep-fried chandrahara topped with a creamy sauce made from khoa, cashews, almonds and desiccated coconut. Might pay to pack those elastic-waisted pants.
Austin, Texas