A multicultural take on high tea
Three tiers of treats that nod to East and West.
SIGNATURE HIGH TEA
AT ZEALONG TEA HOUSE, HAMILTON
The three tiers of treats arrive at the table in elegant style, an edible work of art, savoury bites on the bottom plate working up to sweets at the top. This is high tea at Zealong Tea House at Gordonton. Zealong is the country’s only commercial tea estate. Its organic brews originate in the green plantation adjacent to the tea house where more than 1.2 million tea plants – Camellia sinensis – grow on 48ha of former dairy pasture.
High tea – the English tradition of tea with cakes and scones – has evolved into something fancier over time, and it is a perfect fit with Zealong’s award-winning teas. It has been the signature dish since the tea house opened nine years ago, and customers have never wavered in their support of the meticulously judged assembly of flavours, crunch and creaminess. On a busy day, the kitchen could do 120-150 high teas, each one exquisitely presented.
Zealong’s latest cake-stand compilation is overseen by chefs Mike Watts and Maria Terzaghi. Watts is back in his hometown of Hamilton after 20 years of travelling and cooking overseas. Terzaghi is Italian, an expert in pastries, sweets, and traditional Italian dishes.
‘‘We love fresh food here,’’ says Watts. ‘‘A high tea is a chance to get your top 10 things together for a party.’’ The treats on the plate nod East and West to reflect the different cultures among Zealong’s kitchen staff, and the national and international visitors who come through the door.
A quintessentially English club sandwich sits alongside a shot glass of classic Spanish chilled gazpacho, and a mini-bowl of pastrami beef with sweet chilli rice noodles. On the next tier, there is spiced falafel, coconut fish cake with sesame wakame, and confit duck pancake with soy shiitake and hoisin mayonnaise. Plus savoury salmon smoked with fresh, fragrant Zealong Aromatic tea and served on rye.
A number of the sweet mouthfuls are delicately infused with tea. Terzaghi says the key is to balance the flavours, choosing teas that complement other ingredients but do not overpower.
Green tea panna cotta is a lovely creamy mouthful of sweetness, with a little hit of spice from the tea. Black tea and dark chocolate mousse is a match made in dessert heaven, as is my favourite, a crispy lemon macaron filled with citrus cream and dusted with Zealong Sweet Amber. The tea neatly cuts the sweetness of the macaron.
‘‘You find the things that work,’’ says Watts.
One more pleasure: the signature high tea ($45) comes with complimentary cups of Zealong’s finest, with customers choosing a brew from the estate’s three collections of Origins, Heritage and Botanical. You don’t get much closer to the source than sipping and eating on the restaurant terrace, overlooking the lush plantation below.
High tea, and a high old time, in the Waikato heartland.
Chef’s tip: For high tea at home, go for a good balance between savoury and sweet, and choose items that complement what you will drink. ‘‘Nothing clashing,’’ says Watts. ‘‘And make sure it looks good. The finishing touches count.’’
495 Gordonton Rd, Hamilton zealong.com