Don’t be a sheep, there are wonderful Kiwi gems to visit where every Tom, Dick and Harry haven’t led the way, writes Lorna Thornber.
Te Ara Coast to Coast, Northland Lake Brunner, West Coast
Don’t let the likes of Milford Sound hog the limelight. There are plenty of lesser known places in New Zealand not getting the attention they deserve. Here are just a small selection. Starting in one of the country’s most highly rated attractions (the Bay of Islands), this historic route rewards those willing to take a chance on paths less followed with a string of hidden taonga on its journey from the Pacific Ocean to the Tasman Sea.
The regional tourist board says Te Ara ‘‘has arguably seen more early human history recorded than any other journey in the land’’.
From the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the route passes New Zealand’s first farm, Te Waimate Mission, where Charles Darwin had Christmas dinner in 1835; sand dunes so big they should really be called sand hills; a sacred boulder; and a pioneer village, hot pools, heritage homes and a private nature park where you can walk amid boulders carved by Mother Nature so bizarrely they are considered a ‘‘unique geological phenomenon’’.
While they might look a bit basic, the Nga¯ wha¯ hot springs just east of Kaikohe are a must-visit. The 16 outdoor baths each have different colours, temperatures and mineral qualities said to have therapeutic properties.
While the east and west coasts of this slice of New Zealand are just 88 kilometres apart, the coastlines vary dramatically, and the towns of the west have far more of a classic Kiwi holiday vibe than their often overcrowded eastern counterparts.
Yes, it’s had gang issues and is somewhat less well-to-do than the above-mentioned places, but don’t be a snob. Who wants to spend all holiday checking out art deco buildings and wineries anyway? OK, I can understand the latter but you probably should have at least one other activity planned, for health reasons.
If you’re looking for an action-packed holiday in little or untouched surrounds, Wairoa could be your place. Or just chill on one of the many nearby white-sand beaches (Ma¯ hanga is ideal for long walks, boogie-boarding and surf-casting and several streams have whitebait in season).
In the town itself, visit the historic Portland Island lighthouse and follow the 7.9km coastal walkway to Whakamahia Scenic Beach Reserve, stopping for a dip or spot of trout fishing if you wish. You’ll be hungry after that so hit up the Eastend Cafe for quality homestyle fare, Oslers Bakery – some say it has the best pies in the country, or Tui Takeaways for freshly-battered fish and chips. If you’re lucky, you might stumble across a roadside ha¯ ngi.
Wairoa has hosted the Ma¯ ori Film Festival since 2005 – it takes place each March – and has a new(ish) mountainbike park where riders can see Rocket Lab launches from Ma¯ hia Peninsula. Just a scenic road trip away, Ma¯ hia should also be on your must-visit list: Take your pick of typically deserted surf beaches, hike in scenic reserves, play a round of golf, or check out the seaside markets. Ease sore muscles on the way out with a dip at Mo¯ rere Springs. Keen fisherman and lovers of peace and quiet will be pleased to hear there’s a common saying in these parts: that the brown trout die of old age.
The largest lake in the northwest of the South Island at 39 square kilometres, glacier-carved Brunner is perfect for those who like messing about in boats, kayaks or on deserted beaches. And fishing, of course.
Its sole settlement, Moana – not much more than a camping ground, store and a few houses – is a stop on the TranzAlpine railway, so you could begin your break there with a world-famous train journey. Or, if you’re on a budget, road trip or shuttlebus from Greymouth or Christchurch.
Brunner is just one of a cluster of lakes on this section of Grey River – head to Poerua, Kangaroo, Lady, Haupiri, Hochstetter or Ahaura lakes if you’re after an ultra-remote vibe.
There are numerous walking and cycling tracks to check out if the need for physical activity strikes, as well as glow worm grottos, gold-mining trails and wetlands teeming with birdlife.
Once you return to your accommodation though, which ranges from campsites to a luxury lodge, expect your pulse rate to drop to lower than average levels.
This place could be an illustration for the word relaxed.