Chicken and mushies a one-pot wonder
Bathed in white wine and family lore, this one-pot chicken is a braise for all seasons, writes Becky Krystal.
Do you remember one of the first dishes you really, truly mastered? There’s the euphoric rush of actually finishing it, the bliss when you taste it, and just outright satisfaction. I had all those feelings the first time I nailed my family’s chicken with mushrooms.
It was a simple dish, passed down from my grandmother to my mum and, like many family recipes, exact provenance is unknown.
Coat boneless, skinless chicken breasts with breadcrumbs in a skillet, transfer to a casserole dish, pour on a tin of mushrooms, some wine, and bake. That was it. I started making it all the time.
There was a lot I didn’t know about cooking then – that this dish would be called a braise, that you could actually overcook the breasts, that cheap pink plonk wasn’t the ideal bottle for it.
So it was an interesting endeavour when I decided to cook it again after too many years of not making it. The food writer voice in my head started racing through all the things I could tweak, while the loyal daughter voice said, ‘‘stop, you’re ruining the family recipe’’. My mum seemed more pleased that I was writing about her mum’s recipe than annoyed that I was adapting it.
But the changes keep the recipe true to its original spirit. I found I preferred bone-in chicken thighs (skin removed) for ultra-tender meat and rich flavour. Fresh mushrooms replaced tinned.
Using mustard to adhere the breadcrumbs streamlined the dredging process and added a zippy flavour that complemented the wine, as did a few cloves of thinly sliced garlic.
I also moved the entire operation to a dutch oven, ensconcing this dinner as a one-pot meal.
It goes from stove to oven, where I pull the lid off the pot during cooking to concentrate the braising liquid that just begs for crusty bread to soak it up.
Wine-braised chicken with mushrooms 4 servings
■ 1.1kg to 1.3kg bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed
■ Salt
■ Freshly ground black pepper
■ 3 tablespoons dijon mustard, plus more as needed
■ 1⁄2 cup seasoned breadcrumbs
■ 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed ■ 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced ■ 3⁄4 cup dry white wine, or more or less as needed depending on the size of the pot
■ 225g white button mushrooms, sliced
Position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 175 degrees Celsius.
Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Generously coat both sides of the thighs with mustard and then dip in the breadcrumbs (a large, shallow plate or pie dish is great for this), one at a time, turning the meat over to ensure it’s evenly covered. Transfer the chicken to a baking sheet or large platter and let it rest for at least 10 minutes to allow the coating to set.
In a dutch oven over medium heat, heat two tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Add the chicken, skinned side down, all at once or in batches of two depending on the size of your pan. Cook until the breading is dark golden brown, 3-5 minutes.
Resist the urge to move the chicken too soon to ensure the breading stays put. Carefully flip the pieces over. Cook for another 3-5 minutes, adding more oil as necessary to keep the pan from drying out and the chicken from burning or sticking. Don’t worry if a little of the breading comes off -- you can press it back on or leave to help thicken and flavour the braising liquid. Transfer the chicken back to the baking sheet or platter.
If the pan is looking dry, add another glug of oil. Stir in the sliced garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds to one minute. Add a splash of the wine and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with a generous pinch of salt, and stir. Cook for 1-2 minutes, to jumpstart the cooking process. Nestle the chicken pieces, skinned side up, on top of the mushrooms and pour the rest of the wine around the chicken. The amount will vary based on the width of your pan, but make sure it’s enough to cover the mushrooms and reach the bottom of the chicken.
Cover the pan with a lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for 30 minutes, then remove the lid. Cook a further 15-20 minutes, until cooked. Serve the chicken warm, with the mushrooms and plenty of juices for dipping.