Fiordland waters rundeep
ShareanextractfromNewZealandCoastlines, onthe picture-perfectsouthernsanctuary of Fiordland.
In the southwest corner of New Zealand is a glacial landscape of steep mountains and deep underwater fiords. The often calm waterways are best accessed by boat as there is limited road access. This limited access brings a quiet solemnity to the location.
The waters that fill the deep fiords are dark and made more so by the tannin-stained freshwater that sits on the surface of the salty seawater.
The fresh water runs into the sea from the beech forest that rolls down the steep valleys. Tall beech trees are replaced by tree ferns on the bush margin and ground ferns and moss and lichen-covered boulders lead to the water’s edge. The greenery continues in a layer of algae beneath the waves.
The rainfall of Fiordland is legendary, and, because of this, the freshwater layer can be up to 20 metres deep. This freshwater layer creates a perpetual gloom under water.
The steep slopes plunge beneath the surface, so some of the rocky walls see little sunlight. These darker waters have led to a unique environment where animals that would normally only live in deep, dark water have adapted to quite different conditions.
The relative emptiness of the Fiordland bush is a haven for wildlife. It has been a protected sanctuary for more than 100 years, ever since the natural beauty of the areawas officially recognised and it was made into a national park in 1904.
Penguins clamber over rocks at dawn, ready to start a day of fishing, and return to their nests on land at dusk. They waddle over slippery rocks where seals rest during the day.
Nearby, resident dolphins leap into the still air from the deep water.
Fiordland is a southern sanctuary that never fails to reward thosewho venture there. But to appreciate these vast networks of fiords, a boat is essential.
There is simply no other way to get there.
New Zealand Coastlines takes readers on a tour of the watery border around New Zealand. While most of the photographs were taken by walking a little way from the beaten track, every image was captured from terra firma or a boat nearby. These locations are accessible to everyone. Bateman Books, $29.99.