Derby’s happy trails

A tiny Tasmanian town used to run thick with goldminers, but now mountain bikers have given it a new lease of life, writes

In the hills of Tasmania’s northeast, and revived thanks to the establishment of the Blue Derby Trail Network in 2015, more than 30,000 mountain biking enthusiasts now come each year to what was a tin mining town.

Much like a ski town, it’s not just for the hard-core. While there are 125 kilometres of purpose-built tracks ranging from very difficult (23 Stitches) to easy (Berms and Ferns), the newly opened Valley Ponds trail is the ideal starting point.

The two-way trail passes the fern-lined Ringarooma River, links the Derby and Branxholm communities, and makes for a relaxed and family-friendly ride. See ridebluederby.com.au.

The one steam

The centuries-old ritual of a sauna then a plunge into cold water has made its way to Derby with the country’s first floating sauna on the town lake at Briseis Hole. A sauna master guides the experience, which includes 10 minutes of dry heat from 60 degrees Celsius, then some steam, then a dive into the refreshing water. Non-riders also enjoy this experience, so book ahead.

See floatingsauna.com.au.

The one loaf

Three years ago, chef Luke Clarke swapped the kitchens of high-end properties in Laos and on Lizard Island for baking, biking and a work-life balance. On the off-grid property he shares with partner and Montreal native Catherine Irving, Clarke rises at 5am to bring Nancy, his wood-fired oven, to temperature before baking sourdough loaves, cinnamon scrolls and rosemary focaccia. Order ahead and double the amount.

See facebook.com/derbybreadshed.

The one stay

A place where scout camp and supreme comfort meet, Dales of Derby is a vision realised by the owners, long-time campers in the area, keen for a place that would cater to larger groups. Designed by Philip M Dingemanse Architecture, a walkway leads to bunk rooms and private pods and beds with hotel-quality linen. There’s purpose-built storage for bikes, a quality kitchen, and a communal dining and lounge to comfortably accommodate 24 people. Set on the banks of the Ringarooma River, the property is a fiveminute walk to town. See dalesofderby.com.au.

The one pub

A day exploring is best finished at The Dorset, inside the 1920s building or under the oak in the beer garden. Friendly staff serve local brews on tap, including Willie Smith and Boags, and generous meals such as Spring Bay mussels and Pyengana scotch fillet. Like all the food and drink venues, The Dorset is on Main St. See dorsethotel.com.au.

The one cafe

It’s not the only decent cafe in town, but Two Doors Down serves ready-made sandwiches, fresh pastries and house-made quiches. Real fruit smoothies of local berries and natural yoghurt will provide more than enough fuel to get you up the hill. For pizza, head along the street to The Hub. See thehubderby.com.au.

The one museum

The town’s past is captured in the original 1800s schoolhouse. From a 1929 mining disaster when a dam wall burst killing 14 people, to a 1944 Derby wood chopping challenge with £100 prize money and an afternoon tea of saveloy and sweets, the museum is comprehensive. While Derby’s population peaked at 3000, and more than 1000 Chinese miners lived in camps just outside town, before mountain biking, that population is thought to have once dwindled to just 40. See visitnortherntasmania.com.au.

The one sidestep

A 40-minute drive among rolling green hills takes you to Pyengana Dairy to watch cheesemakers cut curds and whey behind glass, in a tradition that dates to the 1880s in this valley. While guests enjoy farmers’ lunches of ham and relish with the cheddar, maturing wheels in traditional cheesecloth are stored in a cavelike facility underneath. See pyenganadairy.com.au.

The one attraction

It’s worth the 20-minute drive to the turquoise Little Blue Lake, another by-product of the state’s mining era. The vivid colour is a result of the white clay exposed in tin mining reflecting the blue of the sky. This was a working mine as recently as the 1980s, so the water is too toxic to swim in. Ask for directions before setting off. See visitnortherntasmania.com.au.

One more thing

Before tackling the trails, mountain biking novices will do well to invest in a lesson with an expert rider, such as Loz Stranger. In just 90 minutes, our group – ranging from 11 to 50 – was bunny-hopping over rocks and navigating berms (a banked turn), with a semblance of control and confidence. See rideomountainbiking.com. – traveller.com.au

The writer stayed with the assistance of Dales of Derby. See discovertasmania.com.au.