Hawke’s Bay eats and treats
As the weather at home takes a turn for the worse, the Cook Islands joining our quarantine-free bubble seems perfectly timed, writes Lorna Thornber.
Those of us who complain our way through New Zealand’s cold winters will turn cartwheels at the prospect of a Pacific Island holiday this year. Raro, it has been way too long.
If you’re after a laid-back break with beautiful beaches, excellent food, and very little prospect of getting lost, it’s hard to go past the Cooks. Especially since it’s the only Pacific Island we’ll have a travel bubble with for the time being.
There’s much more to the Cooks than Rarotonga, of course – its more remote islands are among the loveliest you’ll find anywhere.
For now, here’s a look at what to do on the two most-visited islands: Raro and little sister, Aitutaki.
Swim with turtles
It’s the closest you will get to experiencing what it’s like to be a fast-swimming marine mammal. Shaped like a small rocket, motorised sea scooters zip you through the water fast enough to keep up with the turtles and eagle rays you will likely encounter.
Ariki Adventures offers two-hour tours from Muri Beach, which will see you take a sea scooter for a test drive before heading to your safari location. There, you’ll don your snorkel, mask and fins and follow your guide into the deeper lagoon waters where turtles like to hang out. arikiadventures.com
Eat in locals’ homes
Feast on authentic Cook Islands fare with three families while listening to a string band.
After being picked up from your accommodation, you’ll be taken to the first home, where you’ll tour the tropical garden before tucking into your first course as your hosts offer insights into what it’s really like to live in a socalled island paradise.
Help yourself to a big buffet at your second host’s home, and to dessert at the third. Dishes may include ika mata (fresh raw fish marinated in lemon or lime-infused coconut milk), grilled fish, umukai (food prepared in an earth oven), rukau (taro leaves cooked with coconut cream), gooey banana poke, and lots of super-sweet tropical fruit. cookislandstours.co.ck
An epic walk across Rarotonga
Far from your typical Pacific Island beach stroll, on the Cross-Island Track you will climb staircases of tree roots to the 413-metre-high Te Rua Manga (Needle) en route to the other side of the island.
Beginning south of Avatiu Harbour, follow the quiet country road by Avatiu Stream to the signpost for the start of the 3-4-hour walk and let the orange markers guide you on a guaranteed adventure. You can opt for a human guide if you prefer. Local legend Pa Teuraa’s team will distract you from your huffing and puffing with tales of the area’s history and flora and fauna.
The first half-hour or so is the toughest, but don’t under-estimate the downhill section from the Needle, which can be muddy and slippery. By the time you get to the waterfall, you will likely be dirty and sweaty – and a little smug at what you’ve accomplished while other visitors sunbathed on the beach. turamapacific.com
Visit a proper island paradise
With palm-covered motu (islets) studding a lagoon teeming with tropical fish, Aitutaki is the stuff Pacific Island dreams are made of. The lagoon is a strong contender for the prettiest in the South Pacific, as are the white-sand beaches.
Air Rarotonga offers a day trip to the island, which includes a land-based tour and cruise on a vaka. Swim and snorkel in that incredible lagoon, refuel with a barbecue lunch, and visit several motu before your 45-minute flight back to Raro.
Linger longer if you can though. There are plush resorts, as well as budget digs along beautiful stretches of beach. aitutakaidaytour.com
Ride around Rarotonga
You could hire a car or scooter or take a bus to circumnavigate the island, but biking it is much more of an adventure.
The blue lagoon is rarely out of sight as you make your way along the flat 32-kilometre ring road through seaside villages, past bright white coral churches, and alongside often deserted coconut-covered beaches.
I cycled up backroads at random to join the quieter inner road for short stretches, careening through clouds of colourful butterflies past banana plantations and half-hidden historic sites. You’re never far from a good place to eat, such as Tamarind House, a former British Consul that now serves as a posh but reasonably priced restaurant.
It rained in tropical torrents the next day, so I spent much of it lazing in the hammock on the back deck of my Airbnb. After the previous day’s activity, I felt I’d earnt it though.